Right, full disclosure straight away: this was one of my very first niche picks, and yeah, I’m definitely biased here. For me it’s the absolute crown jewel of Memo’s Cuirs Nomades collection, no question. Launched back in 2013, it was made to capture exactly that feeling of a crisp frosty morning out in the Irish countryside – the faint smell of a stable, damp grass underfoot, and that raw, open-air ruggedness. It was crafted by Aliénor Massenet, easily my favourite perfumer, and the person behind almost all of Memo’s most iconic releases. And for anyone who doesn’t know: Memo was set up by husband-and-wife team John and Clara Molloy, and Irish Leather is actually a loving nod to Johns Irish roots. Unlike the thick, smoky, old-school leather scents that hit you like a brick, this one’s got this bright, aromatic green heart running all the way through it. First spray hits you with pink pepper, clary sage and juniper berry – and it’s that juniper and sage that take over immediately. It’s sharp, bracing, and instantly gives you that gin-like herbal crispness, exactly like stepping out into cold morning air and taking a deep breath. As it settles, the green maté absolute, iris and flouve come forward, and that maté becomes the star: it’s grassy, slightly bitter, with just a hint of smoke that ties the fresh opening to the deeper base perfectly. The iris adds this subtle, silvery powdery edge too, just enough to keep it feeling polished and elegant, rather than just rough and rustic. The dry-down brings in the leather accord, birch, amber and tonka bean – and forget raw, animal hide, this is the clean, rich smell of a well-oiled premium saddle. The birch adds a soft woody smoke, while the tonka smooths everything out just enough so it never feels harsh or sharp. Performance is honestly brilliant. I get a solid 6 hours on skin, with strong projection that wraps around you in a proper noticeable bubble – never cloying or suffocating, but that aromatic edge means it cuts straight through cold air no problem. It’s incredibly unique too; there’s barely any other “green leather” out there that pulls off this level of realism and balance. It’s not just another nice scent. Its so good, I got another bottle on the way.

This needs no introduction. 15 or sprays, a couple cigars and the evening is set