SOTD: Kilian Black Phantom
Wore Black Phantom today and wanted to give it a proper wear rather than judging it off the name or the note list. I sprayed around 11:15 a.m. and paid attention to how it unfolded over the next couple of hours. In the opening, I got a nutty, confection-like impression that reminded me of peanut brittle. Likely a blend of almond, coffee, and dark chocolate working together. The rum was present but very subdued, nothing loud or boozy like Angel’s Share. More warmth than liquor. About 45 minutes in, I picked up a brief bright pop that came across almost incense-like in the inner crook of the elbow. It felt resinous rather than smoky, cutting through the darker gourmand notes for a moment before settling back down. By the early drydown, the scent turned more gourmand overall. Not a sharp caramel, but a soft melted sugar sweetness with hints of vanilla and tonka. I also noticed a faint creaminess from sandalwood and a light grassiness from vetiver trying to keep things balanced. The issue for me is performance. Less than two hours in, this was already sitting very close to the skin. No real projection, no scent bubble, and eventually I had trouble detecting it at all, even on skin and clothes. At that point, it made me question the purpose of wearing it in the first place. I can appreciate the idea and the composition, but this one just doesn’t work for me. It wears too quietly and disappears too fast on my skin. Respect where it’s coming from, but not something I’d reach for or commit to. This one is one that hurts the most. I really wanted to love this one. I actually have Momento Mori tattooed on my arm and figured if a fragrance has it as a tagline, it would be something that would be memorable because it’s a life experience, but it didn’t turn out to be that 🤷🏽.