Currently I don’t have either one, I was going to run VE as it seems like it’s cheaper. I don’t have injectors or injector lines anyway, so either one makes sense. I can get a timing cover for 100$, but I do like the automatic fuel advance on VE pump. I’m running non-IC reentrant pistons and it’s a low HP build. Aftermarket VE, fake Cummins VE, or aftermarket P?

So I’ve got my hands on actual micrometer and measured by Mahle .040 over pistons. They came out exactly at 4.050. I measured perpendicular to the wrist pin, about inch down from lowest ring grove. I set my bore gauge to 4.056 and checked the cylinder walls, they came out to within 0.0005, with out of round about 0.0002ish. This puts me at about .006 piston to wall diameter, which is half that at 0.003, is that acceptable? What is recommended? I did all this work so I can send these off to Line2Line with correct depth of coating. If mine is 0.003, at 75%, their coating should be .002 thick. I also got ARP 0.40 ring compressor, but with my pistons being 0.50, that clearly work work right. Any budget compressors you guys recommend? 1) what is recommended piston to wall clearance? 2) is 0.003 acceptable? 4.056 cylinder - 4.050 piston / 2 - .003 3) what ring compressor (budget) or will the APR work? The ARP does not slide down all the way in the piston. Lastly, bought the premium, it’s worth the money with questions I’ve already got answered!

Just noticed this on my head after starting to put I new seals. I can polish and make sure there are no burs, but seems pretty shitty to me. Does the valve compress further than the pinch marks?

Kingpin | Madman Developments https://share.google/x4K36IsHabrDBp0l4 In my opinion the lack of inputs will likely make its negligibly better than the spring and star wheel but what do I know. I'd at least like to see rpm in and maybe a gear input

So I was tuning my ve pump Forgot to tighten jam nut on the smoke screw well no more smoke screw does anybody know what size bolt and thread the smoke screw is