Thanks to @Julio Gutierrez for giving me a bunch of Nikolai samples a few months back. Today i tried Nicolai Incense Oud and this one immediately made it clear that it was goimg to be a badass gentleman. There is a lot going on right from the opening. It comes off sharp, screechy, medicinal, and animalic. The closest comparison I can make is YSL Kouros. In the opening, I clearly get artemisia and ambrette. Interestingly, some notes that are officially listed as mid notes show up almost instantly, especially cypriol oil, rose, and patchouli. Around the 10-15 minute mark, woods start to emerge. I assume this is the Cambodian oud, though I want to be clear that I have essentially no real experience with oud fragrances. The only “oud” I have tried before is Y Elixir. So this is very much new territory. As it moves into the drydown, the scent becomes denser and more textured. I start getting coriander, dry incense, castoreum, styrax, amber, and musk. It never really becomes smooth or comforting, but it does become more coherent and intentional. Performance is excellent. Projection is strong and longevity is easily 7-9 hour, and that is without heavy spraying. I was getting around 2 feet of projection on non moisturised skin for a good 4-5 hours, which likely means an extra 1-2 hours of longevity and up to 3 feet of projection on moisturised skin. This is a very challenging fragrance for me. There are a lot of unfamiliar notes here, and oud is clearly something I am not ready for yet. At certain moments, it smelled like bleach or a strong herbal balm. At other times, it smelled genuinely unique, woody, and even slightly citrusy. Overall, it smells much better in the air than up close on skin. I genuinely cannot score this fragrance. That has never happened to me before, which is surprising in itself. It is extremely unique and very confusing to my nose, but if I had to force a number, it would be nothing less than an 8. If you enjoy YSL Kouros, this is absolutely worth trying.

Well it’s warm and muggy on the bayou, looks to be this way the rest of the Christmas season, perhaps the year. Went with this today as I find it more of a Fall fragrance and well we’re back in our “fall”. Le Male Elixir by Jean Paul Gaultier is an Oriental Fougere fragrance for men. Top notes are Lavender and Mint; middle notes are Vanilla and Benzoin; base notes are Honey, Tonka Bean and Tobacco. Welcome on board!The new sailor Le Male Elixir will induce burning cravings and drive your senses crazy. Burning desire spreads with the irresistible notes of fresh lavender, warming tonka bean, and gentle benzoin. With a gilded torso, this fiery novelty from Jean Paul Gaultier embodies radiant power and seductive charisma. It is finished! You melt away with burning desire. This intense fragrance ignites the fire of the senses on his upper body and gives the soft skin a burning sensuality. After a refreshing breeze of mint, the tide rises to addiction, becoming a glowing elixir. In this breath of fresh air, dashing lavender quickly takes on lusty proportions, enhanced by the balsamic richness of benzoin with syrupy vanilla accents. The tonka bean trumps with its warm and sweet tones between honey and tobacco. The time has come: You jump! Radiant at first sight, glowing with masculinity, more fiery than ever. The torso is bursting with muscles, the skin is bathed in copper color by the sinking sun. What a Gaultier body... what accomplished style. Finely chiseled grooves stand out on its muscles dipped in gold and merge with the amber stripes of the sailor shirt, which plays with transparency effects in a highly sexy way.