Next up we’ve got Percival, named for the legendary Knight of the Round Table, the very first knight linked to the quest for the Holy Grail. So… have we stumbled on a “holy grail” of a fragrance then? Let’s cut through the hype and find out. Launched back in 2018, this one was crafted by perfumer Hamid Merati-Kashani. Right from the first spray you get that familiar crisp, “just stepped out the shower” polish – and yeah, there’s absolutely no skimping on ambroxan here. But what makes it stand out is that fascinating synthetic called hedione, which brings this soft, dewy green-jasmine edge to the mix. Honestly? Go look up hedione properly sometime, give it a proper test on its own – it changes how you’ll see so many modern scents forever. It opens with a bright, mouth-watering burst of bergamot and mandarin orange, tangled up with clean, powdery lavender and geranium for that sharp aromatic kick. As it settles down, that loud citrus fades back and the heart takes over: jasmine, violet leaf, a pinch of coriander and just a hint of cinnamon, adding gentle warmth and depth without ever getting heavy or cloying. And like I said – keep paying attention to that hedione weaving through all of it. By the time it hits full dry-down, you’re left with a smooth, musky, woody base: rich amberwood, that same ambroxan that runs through the whole scent, soft balsam fir, white musk, and another clever synthetic called Clearwood. Think of it like patchouli’s smarter, cleaner cousin – all the grounding richness, none of that muddy, earthy heaviness. Now for the elephant in the room: PDM’s eye-watering pricing, and this is the perfect example of why so many people roll their eyes at it. It’s impossible to ignore just how close this sits to Montblanc Legend – which itself takes obvious cues from Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce. Don’t get me wrong, Percival is noticeably better: more refined, better balanced, and feels far less generic than either. But once you see the price difference? You really do have to ask yourself what you’re actually paying for. One weird quirk worth knowing too: with this many potent aroma-chemicals, it’s notorious for making you go completely nose-blind to it on your own skin – happened to me the very first time I wore it. Fitting, really – chasing the “grail” and all that, I could barely smell it on myself! But step outside, catch a breeze, and there it is – drifting nicely, wrapping around you in a soft, solid bubble. And the performance? No complaints there: 8+ hours easy, and that projection wakes right up the second there’s any movement in the air. All in all, easily one of the most interesting, and most divisive, releases PDM has ever put out.

Probably no designer house does citrus eau de colognes better than Hermes. They’ve been doing them for a long time. Citron Noir is special. Literally “dark citrus,” it opens with a bright citrus burst soon joined by a smoky (“noir”) accord. Similar to Amouage Search but brighter and lighter and not as great longevity. Still, great for an EDC — 6 hours. I just respray mid-day. Unisex leaning masculine due to the smoke.

Parfums de Marly is a true niche house because it focuses exclusively on fragrance, but to me it sits somewhere between traditional niche and luxury designer. The quality is consistently high, the presentation is outstanding, and the fragrances are easy to wear without becoming overly challenging. That is probably why the house has become one of the biggest gateways into niche perfumery. While the brand draws inspiration from 18th-century French luxury, most of the fragrances are designed to be appealing rather than artistic for the sake of being different. One thing I appreciate is the blending. Most Parfums de Marly fragrances smell smooth, refined, and well put together. Whether it’s Layton, Greenley, Sedley, Althair, Carlisle, Herod, or Haltane, they generally smell polished and expensive without being difficult to wear. Performance is usually very good, with solid projection, sillage, and longevity. That said, I do have some criticisms. I think the house is heavily influenced by hype, and because of that, some people act as if every release is a masterpiece. I don’t see it that way. Several fragrances share a similar polished DNA, making parts of the lineup feel somewhat repetitive. If you own a handful of Parfums de Marly fragrances, you may start noticing overlap. Another downside is the price. While the quality is very good, I don’t think every fragrance justifies its premium cost, especially now that the house is widely available at luxury department stores like Nordstrom and other upscale retailers. In many ways, it has become a mainstream luxury brand that happens to specialize in fragrance rather than a small underground niche house. Overall, I think Parfums de Marly is one of the safest niche houses to recommend. It offers high-quality fragrances with broad appeal, excellent presentation, and dependable performance. If you’re looking for truly artistic or boundary-pushing perfumery, there are houses that go much further. But if you want luxurious, well-blended fragrances that consistently smell great and attract compliments, Parfums de Marly deserves its reputation.