Decided on the classic Dior Eau Sauvage EDT in a beautiful summer morning. Prefer the Parfum but it’s hard to replace the OG. Mature and confident.

Let me start with what this fragrance gets right, because it genuinely gets some things very right. The opening is fantastic. The moment you spray it, you get this burst of natural, vibrant citrus that immediately transports you somewhere specific — the Amalfi Coast at golden hour, drink in hand, good company around you, the Mediterranean stretching out in front of you. It's one of those rare fragrances that doesn't just smell good, it conjures a mood. Cool, breezy, effortlessly summery. For about 30 minutes, it's everything a warm-weather fragrance should be. And then it's gone. I understand that summer fragrances are intentionally light — nobody wants a projection monster in 90 degree heat. But even by summer fragrance standards, Light Blue's performance is poor. I stepped outside, came back in, and couldn't detect a trace of it on myself. No gentle drydown, no quiet skin scent lingering in the background — nothing. Thirty minutes and it's done. That's not "light and breezy," that's barely there at all. To be fair, skin chemistry plays a role here. Some people burn through citrus-aquatic constructions faster than others, and if you're one of them, no amount of strategic application is going to save Light Blue. It's just not built with enough of a base to anchor it on skin like mine. The silver lining? It makes an outstanding linen refresher. Spritz it on your sheets or pillowcase and that Mediterranean vibe lingers beautifully — fabric is far more forgiving than skin for this kind of fragrance. So the sample won't go to waste. But as a wearable fragrance, if your skin eats through top-heavy constructions quickly, look elsewhere for your summer scent. The opening will seduce you every time — just don't let it make the buying decision for you. **Bottom line:** Smells incredible for the first half hour. Then it's a ghost. Even for a summer fragrance, the performance just isn't there.

Suitable for an important family resort dinner tonight. This is a quintessential episodic fragrance. It is the antithesis of a signature scent. A 100 ml bottle will last you your lifetime and possibly even your son‘s lifetime. This is the house’s first fragrance, commissioned by Oman’s sultan in 1983. It is an unabashedly imperious scent, hierarchical, privileged, wealthy, opulent, powerful, even domineering. Not for the fainthearted. It opens with spectacular and nearly suffocating masculine florals but within 15 minutes the civet arrives – not dirty civet, but clean, animalistic civet still. The effect of the combination of these two sets of accords is nothing short of electrifying. In 44 years of fragrance collecting, I’ve smelled no other fragrance remotely like it, and none like it would ever be produced today, and certainly not by Amouage. The longevity and projection are massive. You’ll need to scrub this off. This one doesn’t go away all by itself. Unless you’re a man of considerable presence and bearing, I would avoid this. If you look up “unsafe blind buy” in the dictionary, this is the picture you’ll find, and on a man under 35 years old this would be considered a clownish affectation. If you think the 37th flanker of Stronger with You is too masculine, you wouldn’t want to be caught dead in the proximity of Gold Man. It’s still available at full retail on the Amouage site, but it is difficult to find anywhere else. Sample at your own risk. You’re into the royals here.