Hermès is one of the better designer fragrance houses, especially if you like citrus, woods, vetiver, leather, and clean, natural scents. This is not a house that usually follows trends or releases a bunch of sweet, loud fragrances to get attention. Hermès has its own style, and most of the fragrances smell mature, refined, and well put together. Jean-Claude Ellena had a lot to do with the identity of the house. His fragrances were usually light, transparent, and simple on the surface, but there was more going on once you wore them. He did not overload his fragrances with a bunch of heavy notes. His style was more about balance, freshness, and creating a clear picture with fewer ingredients. The most important line from Hermès is obviously Terre d’Hermès. The original EDT is still one of the best masculine designer fragrances ever made. It has bitter orange, pepper, vetiver, cedar, and an earthy mineral smell. It comes across mature, confident, and masculine without smelling loud or dated. The Terre flankers are also handled better than most designer flankers. The Parfum is smoother, richer and more rounded. Eau Intense Vétiver is greener and more focused on vetiver. Eau Givrée is fresher, colder, and better suited for hot weather. They all have their differences, but they still smell connected to the original Terre DNA. The Jardin line is another strong part of Hermès. Un Jardin sur le Nil is probably the best known, with green mango, citrus, watery green notes, and woods. Un Jardin en Méditerranée is greener and more fig-heavy, while Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is softer, cleaner and more floral. These are excellent warm-weather fragrances, but most of them are lighter and stay closer to the skin. H24 is Hermès trying to be more modern. I respect that they did not just copy Bleu de Chanel or Sauvage. The original H24 has a green, metallic, and slightly floral smell that can be strange at first. The EDP is deeper and easier to wear, while Herbes Vives is fresher and more energetic. It is not my favorite line from the house, but at least it has its own identity.

Third Eye Fragrance Co. is one of those newer houses that seemed to come completely out of the blue and immediately caught my attention. In a fragrance market filled with repetitive releases, safe designer-style scents, and clone houses chasing whatever is currently popular, Third Eye feels much more creative and independent. This is a house that appears to be building its own identity rather than simply following trends. What I enjoy most about Third Eye is the variety. The fragrances do not all smell like variations of the same basic formula. You can find fresh, dark, sweet, woody, aromatic, tropical, and more unusual artistic compositions throughout the collection. Even when a fragrance is easy to wear, there is usually something different happening that gives it personality. Two fragrances that really show what this house can do are Red Rum and Flamango. Red Rum is excellent. This is a dark, rich, boozy gourmand built around black cherry, ripe plum, spiced rum, tobacco, tonka bean, vanilla, amber, and oak. It opens juicy and almost sinful, with the cherry and plum soaked in rum, but it does not come across like a cheap cherry-candy fragrance. As it develops, the tobacco, tonka, vanilla, and oak give it warmth, depth, and a slightly smoky sweetness. It is bold and addictive, but it still feels smooth and well blended. This is the type of fragrance I would reach for during cooler weather, at night, or anytime I want something with a little attitude and presence. Flamango is equally impressive but goes in a completely different direction. It opens with bright pink grapefruit, orange, and mango, followed by lemon, ginger, and neroli. The mango adds a tropical fruitiness, but the grapefruit, ginger, citrus, and neroli keep it fresh rather than overly sweet. As it dries down, sea salt, sandalwood, and cedar give it a clean, slightly woody and coastal feeling. It is vibrant, energetic, and extremely enjoyable in warm weather. Flamango feels like sunshine, tropical fruit, salty air, and fresh citrus without smelling like a basic tropical body spray.