SOTD: Under the Lemon Tree by Maison Margiela 21/08/2025

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Number three is one I have neen looking forward to trying for a while now. Despite my learning to enjoy citrus this summer, i still havent found a hood citrus scent that lasts more that a few minutes. They just seem to crash n burn after a short while.

Under The Lemon Tree is no exception. It starts of great then falls flat on its face, relying on other notes to keep the show on the road. As with all the Replica range, the name gives away the concept. Here, it is meant to evoke the memory of a relaxing escape to the Mediterranean countryside. This might still be the case, after the children stole all the lemons to make lemonade. Launched in 2018, I couldnt find a perfumer for this one.

Under the Lemon Tree is a citrus-floral fragrance with a woody base. It starts of great with a bright, zesty, sparkling citrus burst. The primary notes listed are Kalamansi lime & petitgrain, often described as a tart, mouth-watering lime with a slightly bitter, green quality. Cardamom adds a subtle, spicy warmth to the opening. As the initial citrus blast fades (which happens really fast, the fragrance transitions to a clean, green, lightly earthy middle. Notes of green tea & coriander take center stage, giving the scent a refreshing, almost iced tea-like quality. Mate absolute also contributes to this herbal, green feel. The dry down reveals a subtle, woody & musky foundation. Cedarwood provides a clean, dry woodiness, while white musk adds a soft, almost soapy accord. A hint of citrus absolute lingers, but its more like a citrus peel and quite bitter but the dominant feel is one of comforting warmth and a clean skin scent.

One of the weakest performers in the set. What is it with citrus fragrances? The biggest criticism of this fragrance is its staying power. The projection is generally moderate at first, but it quickly becomes a subtle, close-to-the-skin scent. The woody musky drydown does redeem itself somewhat, but its still lacking. Sadly, I would probably pass on this one.

My Rating: 4.5/10

Scent: 2

Longevity: 1.5

Sillage: 1

Y/N: 0

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