The plan today was to make a cut in the soil at the new project, it rained last night and is going to rain again for the next few days. Two things are stopping me; after the change in weather all the little flies that bite have appeared and its impossible to be outside in one place for more than two minutes before they find you , and I also have lost my spade, looking everywhere is not that simple when its a big place. Generally I have two of everything, the cutting spade is unique in that it's just worn the way I like it and very sharp . Looking like it's plan B .

Most of us think about planting in terms of calendar dates—but nature doesn’t run on a calendar. It runs on energy. If you zoom out, the seasons follow a pattern—a rise and fall of solar energy, almost like a sine wave: - Winter → low energy, rest - Spring → rising energy, growth begins - Summer → peak energy, stress + production - Fall → declining energy, root development The key isn’t just how much energy there is—it’s the direction it’s moving. That’s why timing matters so much. Planting in late fall works because you’re aligning with the downward curve. The plant isn’t fighting to grow above ground—it’s quietly establishing roots. Planting in mid-summer does the opposite. You’re trying to establish during peak stress, when plants are already working at their limit. Same plant. Same soil. Different timing → completely different results. When you start aligning your actions with the natural rise and fall of energy, things get easier, not harder.

A tomato guild starts with the tomato as the anchor crop. From there, we add support plants that help the whole bed function better. The goal is not to plant everything. The goal is to choose a few plants where each have a job in the ecosystem. A simple tomato guild might include: Main crop:Tomato Aromatic plants for pest confusion: Basil, chives, onions, leeks, thyme, oregano, marigold Soil cover: Lettuce, spinach, parsley, nasturtium, straw mulch, leaf mulch, compost with hardwood mulch; living mulch like clover Pollinator and beneficial insect plants: Parsley flowers, yarrow, zinnia, marigold, calendula, nasturtium Different root zones: Onions, chives, leeks, lettuce, parsley, basil, radish, carrots if space allows Soil life support: Compost, vermicompost, chopped leaves, straw, leaf mold, comfrey chop-and-drop, fall cover crop This gives us food, scent confusion, soil cover, insect support, root diversity, and soil protection. A guild is not a magic formula. It is a way to stop seeing each plant as separate and start seeing the bed as a small living system.

Soil is not just something plants sit in. It is alive. When soil life is active: - nutrients cycle naturally - water holds longer - plants handle stress better Life in the soil is what builds stability over time. Everything we do from here supports that life. When you dig into your soil, what do you usually see?

The land behind my wife's restaurant is crying out to be developed, in the past it's been home to caravans, a donkey, two or three sheep and a couple of ponies. I tried a few years ago planting trees and almost all were destroyed by red deer. If anyone is interested I could document and photograph the progress, the advantage for me being a push to make a start and a consistently good progress, and also posting here is opportunity to get peer opinion and feedback. A controlling hand to stop me being distracted, perhaps notice mistakes before I do, and encourage , it's improvement and as it's developes will motivate everyone at the same time . It's likely to take a whole year, so far I have just cut the grass once with a brush cutter. Next steps include; 1.Cleaning the site. 2.Measurements, orientation, assessment of the soil and site .Then to prioritize its role/function. 3.Making a plan and basic design. 4. Marking out and breaking soil/or adding compost and amendments. 5.Sourcing plants cuttings and seeds. 6. Planting and collecting/adding mulch. Interested in peoples thoughts and if this would be a useful input/ information.