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Handling Water and Runoff
We had a brief discussion last week or so talking about swales with mosquitoes and keyline plowing. Mosquitoes can be a real issue if the swale holds water for more than a few hours although its purpose is to slow water enough to let it sink in without pooling. Keyline plowing is a strategy although might not be the best option for smaller properties. Each strategy has its pros and cons... I added some files in our permaculture section that explains each strategy for both the small and large property. https://www.skool.com/oasis-builders-8012/classroom/f85f59fa?md=4383e4495b74474b86be3c0b20b448e2 Please let me know if I need to add more info or change anything. Thank you
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March 22 Journal Zone 7b
Update on garden work. I am on my second compost pile for this year... First turn went 4 days at 165F (74C), turned pile and now at 4 days at 74C, will start turning it today. Its 90F (32C) in the poly tunnel today so it will be a slow go. I'll try to finish turn today although if not, will finish in the morning. The Sugar snap Peas are climbing the ropes I strung for them, spinach about 2 - 3" high... carrot tops about 2" high, leaf lettuce had sporadic germination but range from 1 - 2", daikon radishes about the same height... typically germinate in less than a week... eating a few tops to thin... spicy greens. I planted more sugar snap peas, leeks and carrots last week... seeing a couple green babies but not a full germination yet. I transplanted 70 tomato plants last night. Some may not make it. I let go a little longer than I should have leaving a few with long stems and I only have 3" pots so not as deep as would have liked. I will order 4" pots in the future which will work either way. Time will tell. Keeping them watered with 12 hours of light. I notice the Black Crimeans did not germinate as well as the others as well as the ghost peppers. I'm guessing the soil was not warm enough for them; I did not use a heat pad. I plant to transplant these tomatoes into the poly tunnels April 7 - 8. Calendar right for planting next weekend so will start some more B. Crimeans and Ghost peppers as well as any other transplanting vegetables for late April planting. Most of my direct seeding will go in the last week in April. I transplanted the tomatoes off my tray although left the two hot peppers, Holy basil, German chamomile, Purple cone flowers, Basil, Beauty berry, sage and lemon balm in the try until possible next weekend. I think the tomatoes shaded them out a bit. We will see how they look at end of the week. Soil temp in the poly tunnel 72F (22C); will test outside soil temp tomorrow for comparison.
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Biodynamic Calendar
I ran my notes through Notebook LM for the planning stages and seems fairly clear as a path forward. I think us looking at a 14 day calendar together might be the way to go. I am going to try to post 14 day plan every 14 days. We can all journal and experiment together. It just might be me, but I have some of the strongest tomato starts I think I have ever had. I picked a 3 days fruiting period in February and sowed the seed on the middle day. I am going to transplant today and tomorrow. On the calendar tomorrow is a single strong transplant day... I will mark my cups with todays day and tomorrows date just to see if there is a difference. And it may just be the plant, but if you look at the plants along side, they are leaf plants, healthy but no the growth I see in the fruit plant. February 21 was a Leaf/Fruit day, February 22 was a Flower/Fruit day and February 23 was a Root/Fruit day... these were planted February 22. I also participated in a zone 3 group discussion on the biodynamic calendar found here https://www.skool.com/oasis-builders-8012/classroom/f85f59fa?md=8a76d88605134baba84da1bc305e5cb1
Biodynamic Calendar
Question
I have volunteer tomatoes everywhere. I have a few pretty tight together. Should I transplant and risk stunting growth or just let them grow guiding the stems away from each other.
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