I know a few of us have chickens so here are a couple tips. When the weather climbs into the 90s, water, shade, and airflow come first to cool our chickens. Chickens do not sweat like we do. They cool themselves by panting, holding their wings away from their body, and moving heat through their combs and wattles. Once these basics are in place, a few herbs and moisture-rich plants can add another layer of summer support. Fresh spearmint and lemon balm are commonly offered during hot weather. They are traditionally cooling herbs, and many chickens enjoy pecking at the fresh leaves. Purslane is another excellent summer plant because it naturally holds a lot of water while providing good nutrition. Chickweed, broadleaf plantain, and mallow can also make good additions when foraging or when finding them growing around the garden. One thing we want to remember is that herbs are not a replacement for good flock management. They are simply one more piece of the system. A handful of fresh herbs, a patch of edible weeds, or a few moisture-rich garden plants can help support the flock, although the foundation is still water, shade, and airflow. The goal is not to overcomplicate chicken care. It is to notice what the flock needs, use what is already growing around the home, and add support in a steady way. What herbs or garden plants do your chickens seem to enjoy most during the heat?

Where I am located, this year is likely to be the hottest and driest summer in living memory , being realistic, I know things will fall, plants are going to die and working to exhaustion trying to save them is not what gardening is about, sometimes there's nothing you can do.

A lot of us have seen this in the garden before we ever had the words for it. Two plants can be growing in the same general area, but one gets covered in aphids, beetles, or disease pressure, while the other seems to stand stronger. The difference is not always luck. Many times, the plant under pressure shows us something about its energy, minerals, water rhythm, soil biology, or stress level. One way to watch that pattern is with Brix. Brix is a reading of soluble solids in plant sap or juice. Most of the time we think of it as sugar, although it is not only sugar. It can also reflect dissolved minerals, amino acids, organic acids, proteins, and other soluble compounds moving through the plant. In plain garden language, Brix gives us one clue about how well the plant is photosynthesizing and how much energy is moving through the system. When a plant has good sunlight, water, minerals, and living soil around its roots, it can make sugars through photosynthesis. Those sugars do not just stay in the leaves. The plant uses them to grow roots, stems, leaves, fruit, seed, and protective compounds. Then the plant sends part of that carbon through the roots as root exudates. Those exudates feed bacteria, fungi, and other soil life. That is one of the most important exchanges in the garden. The plant feeds the soil life with carbon. Soil life then helps unlock, cycle, and deliver nutrients in forms the plant can use. As that loop gets stronger, the plant has more of what it needs to build strong cell walls, balanced proteins, better flavor, deeper color, and more protective compounds such as flavonoids and other plant metabolites. That is where Brix, nutrition, and pest resistance begin to connect. The phrase “insects cannot eat high-Brix plants” gets used a lot, although I think we need to say it carefully. A high-Brix plant is not invisible, and no garden plant is completely pest-proof. Insects can still nibble. But a plant with strong photosynthesis, balanced minerals, good protein formation, and active defense compounds is usually less attractive and harder for many pests to feed on successfully.

Recently we looked at how the soil surface gives us clues. Crusting, cracking, stale smells, disappearing mulch, and runoff can all show us what is happening in the garden. Weeds give us another layer of clues. Most of us have been trained to see weeds as something to pull, spray, or get rid of quickly. Sometimes that is the right move. Some weeds crowd young vegetables, spread by roots, or go to seed faster than we can keep up with them. Although before we pull everything, it helps to ask what the plant may be showing us. Plantain, chickweed, dandelion, or dock may point toward compacted, disturbed, or heavy soil. Rushes, sedges, buttercup, and horsetail often show up where soil stays wet. Mullein, yarrow, thistle, and pigweed can handle dry, open, disturbed ground. Nettles and lamb’s quarters often show up where fertility and nitrogen are stronger. One weed does not give us a complete soil report. It is a clue, not a final answer. We still need to use a soil test, a moisture check, a shovel, and common sense. A plant identification app can help. I use PictureThis quite often as a starting point. Apps are not perfect, but they can help us put a possible name to a plant. Before eating, using, or letting a plant spread, it is wise to compare it with another trusted source. In nature, bare soil does not stay bare for long. If we leave ground open, nature will send plants to shade the soil, hold moisture, feed insects, catch minerals, and begin rebuilding cover. For soil regeneration, nature is doing the hard work by planting every inch. Our goal is to manage with understanding. We can leave some flowering weeds on edges, pathways, or wild corners for pollinators, while keeping them away from vegetable rows and young plants. We can chop and drop some weeds before seed heads form, mulch open soil, and plant beds more densely to limit bare ground and reduce opportunistic seed germination. Some weeds are edible or useful herbs, including dandelion, plantain, chickweed, lamb’s quarters, purslane, violet, nettle, and cleavers, although proper identification is important before we eat or use a plant medicinally. We also avoid plants from roadsides, sprayed yards, pet areas, polluted soil, or places we do not know well.

I don’t think it’s about choosing one over the others. They all solve different problems. 🌿 Cover crops build soil over time by adding roots, feeding biology, protecting the surface, and producing biomass. 🐄 Manures and compost add organic matter, biology, and nutrients, but their nutrient content can vary quite a bit. 🪴 Organic fertilizers are the precision tools. They help correct specific deficiencies when your soil doesn’t have enough of a particular nutrient. The biggest mistake I see is applying products before knowing what the soil actually needs. That’s why I believe a soil test should come first. It’s much easier to make informed decisions when you know your pH, organic matter, and nutrient levels. My goal isn’t to replace biology with fertilizer. It’s to build a healthy soil system first, then use amendments only where they make sense. Over time, a biologically active soil can cycle nutrients more efficiently, reducing the need for constant inputs. Healthy soil isn’t built with a single product—it’s built by understanding what your soil needs and giving it the right tools at the right time.