A tomato guild starts with the tomato as the anchor crop. From there, we add support plants that help the whole bed function better. The goal is not to plant everything. The goal is to choose a few plants where each have a job in the ecosystem. A simple tomato guild might include: Main crop:Tomato Aromatic plants for pest confusion: Basil, chives, onions, leeks, thyme, oregano, marigold Soil cover: Lettuce, spinach, parsley, nasturtium, straw mulch, leaf mulch, compost with hardwood mulch; living mulch like clover Pollinator and beneficial insect plants: Parsley flowers, yarrow, zinnia, marigold, calendula, nasturtium Different root zones: Onions, chives, leeks, lettuce, parsley, basil, radish, carrots if space allows Soil life support: Compost, vermicompost, chopped leaves, straw, leaf mold, comfrey chop-and-drop, fall cover crop This gives us food, scent confusion, soil cover, insect support, root diversity, and soil protection. A guild is not a magic formula. It is a way to stop seeing each plant as separate and start seeing the bed as a small living system.

Instead of just planting, I’m thinking about building an system—something that holds moisture, builds soil, and creates its own microclimate over time. In a zone like 6b, where we get swings in temperature and periods of dry weather, structure matters just as much as what you plant. It starts with simple things: - Sun, wind, land planing - Plant specific zones - getting trees in the ground - adding organic matter - slowing water down - giving roots a place to establish From there, it’s about layering—letting shade build, soil improve, and the system start to support itself. It’s not instant, and it’s not perfect, but you can already start to feel the difference when you’re working toward something more.

Ok sounds good... in zone 8b, its time to get some transplants in the ground soon... If I did till this first year, I would not go deep 2 - 4" is good... the compost would be great as long as the leaves and greens are broken down. If the leaves not full decomposed, they can still be used for top mulch after the plants are 8" or taller to protect the soil from the sun... It will be very important to make sure no soil is left exposed to the sun... What's growing in your area now?

I ran my notes through Notebook LM for the planning stages and seems fairly clear as a path forward. I think us looking at a 14 day calendar together might be the way to go. I am going to try to post 14 day plan every 14 days. We can all journal and experiment together. It just might be me, but I have some of the strongest tomato starts I think I have ever had. I picked a 3 days fruiting period in February and sowed the seed on the middle day. I am going to transplant today and tomorrow. On the calendar tomorrow is a single strong transplant day... I will mark my cups with todays day and tomorrows date just to see if there is a difference. And it may just be the plant, but if you look at the plants along side, they are leaf plants, healthy but no the growth I see in the fruit plant. February 21 was a Leaf/Fruit day, February 22 was a Flower/Fruit day and February 23 was a Root/Fruit day... these were planted February 22. I also participated in a zone 3 group discussion on the biodynamic calendar found here https://www.skool.com/oasis-builders-8012/classroom/f85f59fa?md=8a76d88605134baba84da1bc305e5cb1

@Sharon Prahl How big will your first bed bed be... sq ft x sq ft What will be the first things you plant? This will get me started on making a succession plan for that bed. Thank you