Fit 3: know your dimensions · Real Men Real Style Community

5h (edited) • OOTD 👔

Fit 3: know your dimensions

For another early morning meeting I threw on the Same shirt and socks worn yesterday (had changed out of them after yesterdays early morning meeting as soon as i got home and they were close early today) Sorry for all the boring dimensions below but I am trying to illustrate a point. I’ve written many times about fit and the issue with modern coats and their odd dimensions. In one area however the off the rack coat works pretty well for me. I broke down a bought one on a 60% off sale from a very high quality store a few weeks back. At a 67 3/4” inch height and a 32” sleeve length and 29” inseam-off the rack clothing is a struggle. Added to that, my weight fluctuation over the past 10 years has seen me float between a 42 regular and 44 regular. Many guys don’t realize that the length of a coat changes between 42r and 44r off the rack. When I have had coats made in the past I have the length specified at about 30.25”. That’s what this 42R finishes out (covers ass checks and crotch). I am still less than pleased with the height of the button.

The natural waist is where my body hinges (think little teapot song🎶). When wearing jeans or low rise trousers a little bit of that weird inverted triangle is to be expected (to offset I usually leave the coat un buttoned when wearing jeans). But normal mid rise or high rise trousers should make that disappear.

That’s not the biggest issue with the button too high. The real issue is the sillouette of the coat. With a normal natural waist-high button, the shoulders are accentuated and the waist is narrowed (see pics creating an X where the right shoulder makes a line to your left hand at attention on the left side and the other half of the X left shoulder to right hand= silhouette: blue coat with red X is right; brown coat with yellow X about 3” too high)

The top of the side pockets on the coat should be at the hip points with the natural waist just a few inches above. Where the body hinges-That is the button line.

One of the challenges is the 3” or 3.5” lapel width presently. If you look at early 1960’s coats they too had a slightly higher middle button. At 4” lapels this is easier to get that lower stance.

Bottom line is one should understand how a coat is supposed to fit and one’s personal dimensions Many clerks at stores are fashion driven (they sell more if you feel out of step😉). Be wary of most.

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