Has anyone tried the DeVilbiss DV1s and Anest Iwata LPH-80 mini guns? I think Bill has the LPH-80. Any feedback on these two guns? I've just started researching mini guns, and these two seem to be the most obvious top-tier choices. I can get the DV1s with both 1.0 and 1.2 mm nozzles for €365 / $425 after deducting VAT (sales tax), which seems like a pretty good price for the DV1s.

Does anyone have any advice about mixing products from different manufacturers? If I am out of PPG slow hardener, any harm in using High Teck? Assuming they are the same mix ratios? I realize the isocyanate ratio needs to be correct for it to cure properly and mixing brands may leave some unbound. But does this cause a problem in the real world or just on the chemistry white board. What about using a wet bed from House of Kolor and PPG Omni basecoat?

The next step after priming is to restore the interior soundproofing elements, and then to perform the factory interior coloring. The car originally received an interior paint that matched the exterior color of the body, which was restored. It is important to note that the paint did not originally receive a top coat. So painting with a base color would have been the right step. PPG offers a solution for this by strengthening the base color with a maximum of 10% hardener if necessary. However, for me, this protection I thought was not enough, so I chose an unconventional solution that has not been documented anywhere before. PPG's Deltron 880 MS topcoat is normally mixed in a 4:2:1 ratio. It uses the same hardener and thinner as Deltron BC (basecoat). The mixing ratio of the base is 1:1. However, during the topcoat mixing, it can be changed with different additives, for example, with a matting additive. In extreme cases, up to 50% additive can be mixed. I thought that if I mixed the basecoat material instead of the matting or elasticizing additive (which is based on the same chemistry), I would get a mixture that had the right color and coverage, but also retained the protective ability of the topcoat. Accordingly, I mixed the mixture of 3 parts varnish, 4 parts base, 1 part hardener, 1 part thinner and sprayed it with an Auarita 989-2 LVLP gun. I set the pressure and other parameters according to the viscosity of the topcoat. The coverage was good, the final result can be seen in the pictures below. Unfortunately, there was one place that flowed, but on such a large surface, I don't feel that only one single mistake is catastrophic.

Let's move a little higher. Trunk and interior surfaces. The original condition before the bodywork was full of dirt and contamined that had accumulated over the years. So first a thorough cleaning with a vacuum cleaner and then the dirt was removed with a cloth soaked in nitro thinner. After the car was returned, repeated cleaning with degreasing chemicals was a must. After cleaning, the epoxy primer was applied to all points. I used the same primer as below (and on all points of the car). The gun was also the same. The result can be seen in the few pictures below. After the first layer of primer, seam sealing was done and only after that a second layer was applied, so the entire interior got a uniform color and a continuous surface.