Activity
Mon
Wed
Fri
Sun
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
What is this?
Less
More

Memberships

Make it Match

171 members • Free

13 contributions to Make it Match
Weekly calls and Premium Membership
Just an unsolicited thought from another member... If you've been on the fence about the Premium membership, I'd encourage you to give it a try. I've been attending the weekly live calls for the past few weeks, and because there were so few members, I've often had Aaron all to myself for an hour. Those sessions have probably accelerated my learning more than anything else. Now that the membership is only $7/month, I honestly think it's one of the best values out there if you're serious about improving your skills. I'd love to see more people join the calls — not because anyone asked me to say this, but because I think hearing other people's questions, challenges, and experiences would make the discussions even more valuable for everyone. Hope to see some of you on a future call!
Booth ventilation - positive or negative pressure
I am getting started on building my paint booth. It will be modular, 12 x 24 ft, with 6 x 8 ft panels that will be fastened together. I've got a 5000 cfm exhaust fan, and was planning to use it to blow air into a plywood plenum, through a dozen intake filters, and then exhaust out the other end through exhaust filters. This will be inside my 40x50 shop that has heat and AC. It will pull conditioned shop air in, but I am uncertain if it can be just be exhausted through the exhaust filters into the shop, or if I need to make it a negative pressure booth, pulling air out and exhausting it outside. I was thinking of using zipwalls to allow me to enter/exit, and also for the truck parts to enter and exit. I would sure appreciate any info/recommendations anyone to help me figure this all out.
1 like • 8d
I've had several long discussions about paint booth design with a friend of mine who has a master's degree in HVAC engineering. He strongly believes that maintaining a slight positive pressure inside the booth is important, especially in a typical garage environment. Otherwise, dust can be drawn into the booth through gaps in the building structure or from the surrounding workshop area. His own makeshift booth uses only intake fans that supply filtered air, keeping the painting area at a slightly higher pressure than the adjacent workshop. Ideally, however, you would have both intake and exhaust fans. The intake fans should provide a slightly higher airflow (CFM) than the exhaust fans so that the painting area remains under a slight positive pressure relative to the rest of the garage. My understanding is that almost all commercial paint booths maintain a slight positive pressure, with the emphasis on supplying a large volume of clean, filtered air to remove overspray while preventing dust from entering the booth.
1 like • 7d
@Joseph Hansen I know the feeling! I lived in San Diego for 11 years before I got the urge to move back to Finland. Now I finally have enough space for all my hobbies, something I never had in SoCal—but I also got the never-ending winters. It's all a trade-off.
Has anyone here sprayed single-stage metallic?
A friend of mine on the other side of Finland is doing a nut-and-bolt restoration of an early ‘70s Opel Diplomat. He chose to paint the car with Tikkurila Temadur 90, an industrial 2K polyurethane that’s a single-stage silver metallic. He’s not happy with the result, mainly because of tiger striping. From what I’ve been able to find, he used a generic, inexpensive thinner that appears to have been a fast thinner. He also sprayed the car with a sub-$100 bottom-feed spray gun (probably not ideal! 🤣). He knows I’ve been trying to learn automotive painting and has invited me to respray the car. I plan to use an Iwata WS-400 Series 2.1 Clear gun with either a 1.3 HD or 1.4 HD setup. I’ll spray a number of test panels in my shop before driving over to paint the car. I’ve already picked up some slow thinner for the test panels, as I think it may help reduce tiger striping, especially since it’s a relatively large car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I’ve only sprayed one complete car before, and that was more than 30 years ago. The doors will be installed, but the hood, trunk lid, and sunroof will be sprayed separately on stands.
Has anyone here sprayed single-stage metallic?
1 like • 26d
Thank you very much for the insight. Fortunately, this paint is reasonably priced, so I can spray multiple test panels without worrying too much about the cost. I’ll definitely try with a control coat also. I’ve been spraying all my other projects with an Anest Iwata AirGunsa AZ3 HTE2, but I ordered the WS-400 last week, as it’s the gun I want to master for my own projects in the long run. I also made sure my local paint supplier has DIN 4 viscosity cups in stock. I’m hoping to start testing next week. It’ll be a little nerve-racking to attempt this on someone else’s car, but I think that with enough testing we can achieve a better result than my friend’s first attempt with an €80 spray gun and generic thinner.
0 likes • 20d
Painted the first test panel today. I started with one light tack coat, followed by a medium coat, and finished with a control coat sprayed from roughly double the normal distance. I didn’t bother sanding the rust around the edges of the panel. I simply scuffed the panel with 400-grit paper before painting. It also wasn’t sprayed in a dust-free environment because it's just a test panel. So far, it looks like the WS-400 with the 1.3 HD setup sprays this single-stage paint beautifully. The owner, my friend, doesn’t want a perfectly flat, modern finish and has been against a base/clear system from the beginning. He wants the paint texture to resemble what a 1971 Opel would have had from the factory. I have a feeling I’m getting pretty close with this test panel, but I’d really appreciate any thoughts from those with more experience and/or with experience with cars from this era.
Student of the industry
While I have been working to learn autobody for several year’s now, this work is something I do at home and take great pleasure in doing. Finding a starting point was not easy to do as the pros in my corner of the world act as if this should be a secret with no newcomers allowed, so in-person conversations don’t happen. I am grateful to find forums and site like this to interact with and learn my mistakes from. This ford truck has been my first commitment to a full frame off restoration. This has been a 2-1/2yr endeavor to this point as all the work has been by my hand. If I could not purchase what I needed I fabricated it. I am very proud of this truck but I do realize that because I was so lacking in knowledge this paint job will eventually fail. After some time practicing the Chevy truck was the first time blending the hood into the fender for a color match. The bed was my first bed-liner spray. Thank you for opportunity to learn and a place to communicate with others learning. I am currently working a obs Chevy. I am taking this one to bare steel replacing the rusted areas or sanding out the rust then covering in epoxy for I start any filler work. I’m driven to step up my game on this one and do it properly.
Student of the industry
2 likes • 29d
Your work looks amazing!!
My first painting project
Hi to all. I am beginner in the automotive painting world which I challenge my self to complete my project car and paint myself. I bought the Volkswagen Caddy with a light front collision damage which I replaced the front bumper, sidewings, hood and it’s a different colour which I need to paint it silver colour which I learned that is most difficult, but I don’t give up from this challenge and start to learning on Internet and on YouTube and recently joined this community to learn more about painting from the professionals like you and I hope I will get very good tips how to do my first painting job and I hope will be great. I bought the one cheap spray gun from Temu I believe is copy from DeVilbiss GTI pro lite with TE20 cap. I bought the silver colour and clearcoat. I try first paint on the damage hood. The paint come very rough, is feel like a sandpaper. I belive my paint mix was not so good as well the pressure setting was the problem. My second attempt was much better but still the base colour was more rough than the original. Is good I have test panels where I can learn and compare the colours.
My first painting project
0 likes • Jun 27
Do I understand correctly that you used some kind of filler primer from a spray can (possibly 1K) and then sprayed base coat and 2K clear on top of it and that’s when the pin holes appeared?
1 like • 30d
Here’s my guess (and I’m still learning this stuff myself, so hopefully some of the more experienced painters will chime in): I think the primer-filler was applied too thick for a 1K product. Since it’s non-catalyzed, it’s not really intended for heavy builds. If it wasn’t fully cured, the lower layers probably still contained trapped solvent. When the basecoat and clear were sprayed over it, those solvents may have been forced out, creating the craters you’re seeing. My understanding is that 1K aerosol filler primers aren’t the best choice when you need to build up a repair. They seem to work much better for thinner coats and small spot repairs.
1-10 of 13
Esa Harvela
2
4 points to level up
@esa-harvela-5400
I'm Esa and I have two classic Defenders that I will start working on soon and they'll both need a killer paint job.

Active 9h ago
Joined Jun 1, 2026
Lappeenranta, Finland
Powered by