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Make it Match

281 members • Free

21 contributions to Make it Match
Mini Spray Guns
Has anyone tried the DeVilbiss DV1s and Anest Iwata LPH-80 mini guns? I think Bill has the LPH-80. Any feedback on these two guns? I've just started researching mini guns, and these two seem to be the most obvious top-tier choices. I can get the DV1s with both 1.0 and 1.2 mm nozzles for €365 / $425 after deducting VAT (sales tax), which seems like a pretty good price for the DV1s.
0 likes • 2d
Thanks Chris! That looks like an interesting gun too, and definitely a strong contender!
0 likes • 3h
Thank you Bill! This is very helpful information!
My first painting project
Hi to all. I am beginner in the automotive painting world which I challenge my self to complete my project car and paint myself. I bought the Volkswagen Caddy with a light front collision damage which I replaced the front bumper, sidewings, hood and it’s a different colour which I need to paint it silver colour which I learned that is most difficult, but I don’t give up from this challenge and start to learning on Internet and on YouTube and recently joined this community to learn more about painting from the professionals like you and I hope I will get very good tips how to do my first painting job and I hope will be great. I bought the one cheap spray gun from Temu I believe is copy from DeVilbiss GTI pro lite with TE20 cap. I bought the silver colour and clearcoat. I try first paint on the damage hood. The paint come very rough, is feel like a sandpaper. I belive my paint mix was not so good as well the pressure setting was the problem. My second attempt was much better but still the base colour was more rough than the original. Is good I have test panels where I can learn and compare the colours.
My first painting project
1 like • Jun 28
Here’s my guess (and I’m still learning this stuff myself, so hopefully some of the more experienced painters will chime in): I think the primer-filler was applied too thick for a 1K product. Since it’s non-catalyzed, it’s not really intended for heavy builds. If it wasn’t fully cured, the lower layers probably still contained trapped solvent. When the basecoat and clear were sprayed over it, those solvents may have been forced out, creating the craters you’re seeing. My understanding is that 1K aerosol filler primers aren’t the best choice when you need to build up a repair. They seem to work much better for thinner coats and small spot repairs.
0 likes • 3d
Congrats!! Looks nice! Enjoy the beer… 🤣
1973 Opel Diplomat - Single Stage Metallic
Painted this car with a single-stage metallic (Tikkurila Temadur 90) yesterday for a friend of mine. This was my biggest undertaking so far. I've learned that single-stage metallics are extremely tricky. I practiced on one fender, four doors, and two hoods (some of them more than once) to get the gun settings right for my WS-400 1.3HD. Despite all that, the first panel I sprayed at my friend's garage immediately started showing tiger striping. If you spray too wet, the flakes start swimming and you end up with tiger stripes or blotchiness. I was constantly struggling to find the happy medium between acceptable orange peel and good flake control. This paint definitely needed a control coat, and that's what fixed the sunroof, too. There were some dust issues in his space, but he's very happy with the result. No runs, no tiger stripes, and the orange peel is relatively uniform. His own attempt at painting the car hadn't gone well, and taking it to a professional shop wasn't within his budget. He also wasn't willing to switch to a basecoat/clearcoat system. Personally, I don't think I ever want to touch single-stage metallic paint again. I lived under constant stress for a couple of months planning this spray, and I'm so happy it's done! 😆
1973 Opel Diplomat - Single Stage Metallic
0 likes • 4d
Mike - adjusting the fan in while watching the psi is something I've never heard of. I will test it out in the future. Thank you for the comment!
0 likes • 4d
Thanks Jaborszki! That explains the technique well.
Intro
Hey all. My name is Jeanty. Im a 24 year old painter based out here in Ohio. Growing up Ive always been very passionate about art and cars and inevitably the two things merged and I ended up in this field. I recently just got a new role painting prototypes at Honda’s R&D department that im super excited about. Also, here’s one of my personal projects. It was a chameleon paint job I did on my G37. I ended up getup into an accident and the car is totaled, but it was fun while it lasted ! Very happy to be apart of this community and meet you all.
Intro
1 like • 9d
Congrats on your new job! It sounds super exciting. There’s probably a secretive side to what you’re painting, but if and when you’re allowed, post some pictures here—we’d love to see them!
Work under the body - 2
When I reached the clean metal state I washed the whole thing with IPA before applying the primer. As a primer I used IMPA 1806 2K epoxy primer in the factory RAL1015 color. The gun was an Auarita K-400 with a 1.7 nozzle. My compressor is a 50 liter tank on which I put 6 silent compressor heads, so the total capacity is 390 liters/minute. After the primer, the gap sealing followed with Sikaflex 529 AT in color beige, and the rubber underbody protection could come. I used SikaGard 6470 in gray as the material. I used the standard underbody protection spray gun for the application. Finally, I sprayed the whole thing according to the factory look, according to the body color, I used the factory PPG GRS Deltron BC 1K paint for this, but the TDS allows me to add 10% PPG hardener. So, for a more stable bond, I sprayed with hardener-strengthened paint. The gun was an Auarita 989-2 with a 1.3 nozzle.
Work under the body - 2
0 likes • 9d
Really nice work!! 👍
1-10 of 21
Esa Harvela
3
35 points to level up
@esa-harvela-5400
I'm Esa and I have two classic Defenders that I will start working on soon and they'll both need a killer paint job.

Active 3h ago
Joined Jun 1, 2026
Lappeenranta, Finland
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