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Owned by Aaron

Make it Match

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Auto painting made simple. Learn pro techniques, share projects, and level up your skills together.

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19 contributions to Make it Match
Resume feature?
Is there a way to “resume” in the classroom? Other online education platforms I have used have a resume feature that takes you right to where you left off. I haven’t found a way to do that in Skool and it is tedious having to navigate to the last video when resuming the training.
0 likes • 5d
There should be a check mark at the upper right hand corner that you can click when you finish a lesson. It’ll turn green when it’s checked. Then, when checked, it’s kind of a visual indicator as to where you are
1 like • 3d
@Matthew Whiting Wow! That’s a great idea. I don’t have a way to make this change but I’ll send a message to the Skool team and suggest they implement something like this.
Order of cleaning
I just watched the video less on preparation and see that you recommend solvent cleaner before water based cleaner (alcohol, etc.). Most other places I have watched recommend the opposite order, water based cleaner first and then solvent based cleaner right before spraying. I am fighting fish eyes and have always wiped with alcohol last, but that also with water borne paints. I am now spraying Axalta solvent base paint and am wondering if that might be more compatible with a solvent being the last thing on the panel. I am going to try another test panel and reverse my order and see if that helps. I am pretty sure the contamination is on the panel and not in the air system, but I am trying to rule out everything as best I can and got to wondering if the order of cleaning might be different for a solvent base paint rather than a water based single stage paint.
1 like • 6d
Good question. In my experience, the order matters less than making sure each cleaner has fully flashed off and that you're using clean towels for every wipe. The reason I typically do solvent cleaner first is that it does a better job of breaking down waxes, grease, and oily contaminants. Then I follow with a waterborne cleaner or alcohol-based cleaner to remove things like sweat, salts, and water-soluble contamination that the solvent cleaner may leave behind. That said, fish eyes are usually caused by silicone, oil, wax, or some other contamination getting onto the surface somewhere in the process. If you're still getting fish eyes, I'd be looking at the entire workflow: • Towels and tack cloths • Gloves touching the panel • Wax and grease remover not being fully wiped off • Air hose contamination • Compressor oil carryover • Products being used near the work area (tire shine, silicone sprays, lubricants, etc.) With Axalta solvent basecoat, I still prefer solvent cleaner first followed by a waterborne cleaner, but the bigger thing is making sure the final cleaner is completely dry before spraying. Trapping cleaner residue on the surface can sometimes create its own problems. Your test panel idea is a good one. If reversing the order changes the result, that's a step in the right direction. If the fish eyes remain exactly the same, I'd start looking harder at contamination sources elsewhere in the process. One thing I've learned over the years is that fish eyes are often caused by something you don't suspect at all. Sometimes it's not the panel - it's the towel, the air supply, maybe some over spray from another product like plastic surface cleaning landing on an adjacent panel accidentally, or something being transferred from your hands without realizing it. And for what it's worth, finishing everything off with a anti-static wipe with alcohol like Devilbiss Dewipeouts (or the sontara alternative that's a lot more expensive) has helped a lot for me.
1 like • 5d
Seems like the right sequence of steps - I usually use wypall x60 towels as well as they seem to shred less than paper towels. I’m going to be painting a set of airplane floats this week from bare aluminum including etch, alodine, and super koropon primer. I’ll make a video about it 😎
Course structure
Hello everyone! I'm pretty surprised how much positive response I've gotten to the content I've made thus far (and there's lots more to come) but I wanted to take a moment and pause to think about the most efficient way to get the knowledge across that I've put together. Because there's a lot! So I figured a poll was the best way to figure out maybe a potential restructure of the course content to make it as meaningful to everyone as possible. What are you here to learn? I'd appreciate any feedback as I continue to improve everything! Thanks - Aaron
Poll
19 members have voted
1 like • 5d
@禹 林 歡迎加入!20年的塗裝經驗真的很厲害,期待看到你的作品!
Even the best laid plans go wrong
Last week I sprayed a bunch of stuff that came off the gun looking absolutely perfect. The kind of finish that makes you stand there for a minute just staring at it. So I walked out for about 30 minutes. Came back, opened the door, looked at my panels and my stomach dropped. Fish eyes. Everywhere. All over the hood, all over everything I had just sprayed. Bad ones too, not little baby ones you can hide under a buff. If you've ever had this happen you know the feeling. Total dumpster fire. Kind of like Kevin dropping the pot of chili at the office Christmas party. That's exactly how I felt walking through that door. What I think actually happened: I'd been running a space heater near the booth to keep things warm. My best guess is somebody sprayed WD40 near it at some point, or got some on it. As the heater warmed up over the session, those silicones cooked off and drifted onto my wet clear. Fish eye city. I was running Wanda 2100 LV that day. Good clear, but it didn't stand a chance against silicone contamination floating in the air. Most guys would panic here and start sanding everything back to base. Don't do that. There's a way better route and it's called flow coating. The basic idea: let the contaminated clear fully cure, block sand it dead flat, then lay fresh clear over a perfectly flat foundation. The new clear self levels into a glass finish and you skip the cut and buff entirely. Let everything cure for two to three days. The hood was the worst panel so I started there to get the hardest one out of the way first. First pass was 600 grit. I needed the coarser paper because the clear was still a touch soft and 800 was giving me painted pigtails, those annoying little curly cues you get when sandpaper grabs soft clear. 600 cut through clean. Wiped it down with a microfiber. Degreased. Then I went back over the whole panel with 800 grit and got it sanded out properly. Looked like a matte mess at that point, which is exactly what you want. If you can still see gloss anywhere, you're not flat yet.
Even the best laid plans go wrong
0 likes • 7d
I fought this exact thing for months years ago, it was Corrosion X I think (or ACF-50/LPS). It creeps into seams and weeps back out for weeks, so it looked clean, then oil showed back up. First thing to check: has this ever had a corrosion inhibitor on it? Just a thought. The other fix might be to try solvent on one towel, immediately wipe dry with a second while it’s still wet. Letting it flash off just re-deposits the oil which might be the cause of the rag-swipe arcs. And try microfiber (the yellow Costco ones) they soak the oil up a little better instead. Also maybe trying to find a slower degreaser might help too. 🤞 Sounds like you’re close!
Quick Intro
I’m so excited that I came across Aaron’s excellent content on YouTube and found this group! I’ve been a DIY person on steroids my entire life. I’ve only painted one car before, and that was back in the early ’90s. Most recently, I built a kitchen for my wife and painted the doors with 2K furniture paint. My friends think the finish looks better than that of many store-bought painted kitchen cabinets. I think that success planted the seed that I could eventually paint my two project Land Rover Defenders, which I recently picked up in Italy and drove back to Finland. Of course, I’m now going completely overboard with my plans and have decided to build a paint booth. Just this morning, I purchased the fans, an oil-fired heating unit, and an Italian-made filter ceiling from a decommissioned paint booth for €1,800. It’s all destined for the paint booth I plan to build in my warehouse. Right now, it’s a big pile of dirty “junk,” but everything was reportedly working when it was removed from the building. I’ll be picking it up next month with a van and trailer. They are located about 400 kilometers away. So, instead of starting work on the Defenders, I think next winter is going to be spent building my paint booth! I’m looking forward to being part of this group! And a big thank-you to Aaron for all the hard work he puts into his videos and this community!
Quick Intro
0 likes • 7d
Wow! What an undertaking. You certainly seem to be on the right path. Excited to see how your space turns out with the refurbished equipment. Thanks for sharing! Nice work on the cabinetry, welcome!
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Aaron Jokela
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@aaron-jokela-2838
Hi, I'm Aaron 👋

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Joined Aug 23, 2025
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