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Owned by Aaron
Auto painting made simple. Learn pro techniques, share projects, and level up your skills together.
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37 contributions to Make it Match
3h •
Hood
Hey, Aaron Im doing a hood that had a chip in it when I was colorsanding, and buffing. Tried to fix the chip, and didn't work. It's a candy black cherry pearl with black as your base color. I filled the chip with glazing putty, and sanded it down with 600. Gonna prime, and redo the coats in that area. Question is I painted the whole hood inside and out, and I can blend the black, and candy. Just waning to know if can blend the clear in the small area where it will last or, do I have to reclear the whole hood? I hate taping off the bottom of the hood cause when I do that there's always tape lines. Any help on this would be much appreciated. Enjoying your channel. Thanks
0 likes • 2h
I would reclear the whole hood, at least the top side. Clear blend might not last, and worse you’ll likely see a halo around the area if you look really closely. This is a great question - not an easy fix. As far as the tape lines go - try back masking around the edges from behind, and wrap paper over the back. As soon as you’re done clearing, pull the tape and paper. It’ll soften the edge and relax - you won’t have a hard edge if done right. Nice choice of hood stand! The innovative tools ones are my favorites. Good luck!
6d •
Weekly calls and Premium Membership
Just an unsolicited thought from another member... If you've been on the fence about the Premium membership, I'd encourage you to give it a try. I've been attending the weekly live calls for the past few weeks, and because there were so few members, I've often had Aaron all to myself for an hour. Those sessions have probably accelerated my learning more than anything else. Now that the membership is only $7/month, I honestly think it's one of the best values out there if you're serious about improving your skills. I'd love to see more people join the calls — not because anyone asked me to say this, but because I think hearing other people's questions, challenges, and experiences would make the discussions even more valuable for everyone. Hope to see some of you on a future call!
2 likes • 5d
Thanks for the thoughts! Looking forward to the live call later this week 😎
6d •
Sealers
I intent to apply a sealer before my base coat. My question is should I apply an epoxy sealer or a urethane. I know the epoxy is best if I have any burn throughs in the primer. However with modern technology is it acceptable to use a urethane sealer if it is rated dtm? I’ve seen a lot of arguments against any urethane with a dtm label.
1 like • 6d
Good question - what line are you spraying, and what sealer options do you have on the shelf? The answer changes a bit depending on the basecoat, so I'd consider that first. That said, here's my general take: I run urethane sealer under urethane basecoat, pretty much every time. The chemistry matches, it cross-links fast, and it lays down flat meaning there's no grit from the epoxy telegraphing up through your color. The real problem with epoxy as a final sealer isn't adhesion, it's the recoat window. Epoxy stays chemically active for days. Nib sand your base, cut through to that epoxy, and try to spot in and now you're fighting swelling, edge mapping, and fry-ups. And your burn-throughs don't need epoxy to be safe. Hit those bare spots with a Bonderite wipe or an etch pen first. Clean metal, keep it wet a full minute, let it dry, then get your sealer on within 15 minutes. The zirconium conversion coating is doing more for corrosion protection than the epoxy might have been anyway. On the DTM argument I think most of the pushback is really about guys spraying urethane straight over untreated bare metal. Treat the metal first and that debate changes. Hope this helps!
0 likes • 5d
Sounds like you're on the right path! UPol 2253 works well, but I wouldn't go much higher than 400 grit as urethane sealer works best at this grit. Plus, you'll be at it forever with the UPOL as that's not the world's easiest sanding primer. Looking forward to seeing your results
10d •
Dry air
Thinking about coils either air hose or copper tubing in ice chest, packing it with ice , then a air dryer at the end ,
0 likes • 10d
Interesting idea! Depending on where you're at, you'll find the ice melts fast. That being said, copper tubing through water is also effective 😎
11d •
Booth ventilation - positive or negative pressure
I am getting started on building my paint booth. It will be modular, 12 x 24 ft, with 6 x 8 ft panels that will be fastened together. I've got a 5000 cfm exhaust fan, and was planning to use it to blow air into a plywood plenum, through a dozen intake filters, and then exhaust out the other end through exhaust filters. This will be inside my 40x50 shop that has heat and AC. It will pull conditioned shop air in, but I am uncertain if it can be just be exhausted through the exhaust filters into the shop, or if I need to make it a negative pressure booth, pulling air out and exhausting it outside. I was thinking of using zipwalls to allow me to enter/exit, and also for the truck parts to enter and exit. I would sure appreciate any info/recommendations anyone to help me figure this all out.
0 likes • 10d
I think having negative fans are a must personally. The exhausted air, no matter how well filtered, will still have VOCs and other things that you don't want hanging around in your shop. My personal preference - air in, air out. Ideally, as fast as possible. Sounds like you're giving it some serious thought, which is half the battle. Excited to see what you come up with!
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