The next step after priming is to restore the interior soundproofing elements, and then to perform the factory interior coloring. The car originally received an interior paint that matched the exterior color of the body, which was restored. It is important to note that the paint did not originally receive a top coat. So painting with a base color would have been the right step. PPG offers a solution for this by strengthening the base color with a maximum of 10% hardener if necessary. However, for me, this protection I thought was not enough, so I chose an unconventional solution that has not been documented anywhere before. PPG's Deltron 880 MS topcoat is normally mixed in a 4:2:1 ratio. It uses the same hardener and thinner as Deltron BC (basecoat). The mixing ratio of the base is 1:1. However, during the topcoat mixing, it can be changed with different additives, for example, with a matting additive. In extreme cases, up to 50% additive can be mixed. I thought that if I mixed the basecoat material instead of the matting or elasticizing additive (which is based on the same chemistry), I would get a mixture that had the right color and coverage, but also retained the protective ability of the topcoat. Accordingly, I mixed the mixture of 3 parts varnish, 4 parts base, 1 part hardener, 1 part thinner and sprayed it with an Auarita 989-2 LVLP gun. I set the pressure and other parameters according to the viscosity of the topcoat. The coverage was good, the final result can be seen in the pictures below. Unfortunately, there was one place that flowed, but on such a large surface, I don't feel that only one single mistake is catastrophic.

After reviewing the classroom section on air supply and moisture eradication, I have questions about the actual diameter needed. The RapidAire supply line that you listed at the beginning of the article is a 3/4 diameter. The air hose that's listed is a 3/8" line. Just wondering if there is a reason to start with the 3/4 supply. if so, do you step down at the filtration process? That wasn't mentioned in the reading (or maybe I missed it). Would a 1/2" supply work just as well? FYI. My guns require 12.xx CFM, My compressor carries 18 CFM @90psi.

Youtube taught me to use epoxy on metal and over filler. But... If your sealer is an epoxy, this step can be skipped? So instead of epoxy on filler ud be applying reduced epoxy over 2k, before base. My guess: yes it would work. Why wouldnt it. Another headscratcher.. spi epoxy tds says 320grit over paint at most. But sealer requires 400 so how would that work even? My guess: idk, analysis paralysis. 320 what if it shows, 400 what if it doesnt adhere.. need Aaron on this one I got a quart kit of epoxy, planned to use a bit for bare metal and seal everything before base but now im thinking i might run out, and my 2k urethane states you can base over it without sealer. So maybe thats the way...cuz i have a gallon kit of the 2k.. My guess: its spi so if they say you can apply color over their 2k urethane they are not lying. It would just come down to color. Black epoxy sealer would work only for very dark colors: dark cherry red, dark blue, midnight purple, but grey would work for pretty much anything except for white yellow and like that I grabbed the black epoxy and if used as a sealer it limits the colors you can do but the urethane is grey so the choices would open up.. tbh. I dont care what color it will be.

I watched Aaron's review of the Porphis PRD-817 spray gun recently, and after he got it dialed in, he seemed to like it for clearcoat. I have pretty much zero experience painting. I do have the Black Widow HTE, but I saw some guys on YouTube talking about it laying down material more slowly. My current project is a 1986 F150, and I will be spraying the entire truck and that is a lot of surface area. Since I have a bunch of projects in my future that will need painting, I was wondering would it be worth it to get the PRD-817 to use as a dedicated clear gun? Also, I wonder where Aaron would put it in his rankings of guns he's used. I know he really like the Black Widow HTE. Should I just stick with that? Thoughts, anyone?

I expect it's a mid-grade product, but I figured that I would ask the collective. Dura-Gold is everywhere, so it's easy to get. But is it any good? Better than Harbor Freight, not as good as 3M? Fine for a daily driver, not worth the time/money for a nice project? Any experience?