This post, again, is provided as an illustration and encouragement for considering the Style System course. I am only in the third part of the first module (5 modules). But as a guy who began his working life as a clothier back in 1975 and by 24 yrs old- kind of ingrained this style walk into my psyche, I am completely geeking out enjoying this study.
Grabbed ultimately the most appropriate type of dress garment a man can wear: a navy blazer, and wore it for church. Purposefully I grabbed one of my cheapest ones for this illustration. I can think of nothing that a gentleman can get more mileage out of than this staple coat. While it doesn’t work in every situation (too dressed down for some power-suit or tux events and too dressed up for some outdoor activities), there is no coat that comes remotely close to its versatility. It is so common, many guys, myself included, get bored with it. But never underestimate it.
I have three. For the sake of the Style System I wore one today to illustrate value. This one I bought for about $160 at the Boy Scout shop after a board meeting at the district HQ. At less than a 4th of my bespoke coat price, after trying it on, I thought what the heck and bought it. Ironically I have had it 10 yrs and worn it only 5x (compared to already wearing my new bespoke royal blue blazer 5x since purchasing it less than 60 days ago) Here is my self score card using Antonio’s FFF pyramid and Value system-{using my own understanding of his math and rating method-skip the math if your head spins😉}
{ Fit (Fi): 1-10 scale; Function (Fu): 1-10 scale; Fabric (FA): 1-10 scale
Combine each and total/30
- Navy Blzr Fi: 5 ; Fu:10; Fa: 6 =21/30=7. Wore5x in 10yrs. Value: 5•7/ $160 = .21
- CT shirt Fi: 9; Fu 10; Fa: 9 =28/30=9.333. Wore 2x 2wk* Value: 9•336(ext*)/$50=62
- Green Challis Club Tie Fi:10; Fu:10; Fa 10 = 30/30 = 10 wore >400x (1982) Value: 10• 400/ $150**=27
- Steel Blu trousrs Fi: 7; Fu 8; Fa: = 20/30 =6. Wore 350x 10yrs Value 6•350/80= 26
- Shell Cordovan lofrs Fi 8; Fu: 10; Fa 10 = 28/30 =9.333. Wore >400x (1982). Value:9.333•400/$900**= 4.1
*extrapolated out new based upon 7 yr old Oxford shirts by CT
**current replacement cost of wool & silk challis tie}
So intuitively I know that a Chinese made wool-blazer that is about an inch too long in the body, over-padded in the shoulder, (shoulder points fit ok however) and too stiff in the front quarter panels proves that it’s “value” is much lower than the new blazer I had made recently that is 5 1/2 times more expensive. I can now prove it using Antonio’s system: (Value of new bespoke 8.1 versus value of 10 yr old blazer .12). SO-I can quantitatively prove: It’s not the price- it’s the uses (function) and how I feel wearing it (Fit and Fabric) times the number of wearings and this quotient divided by the price that makes value. I have a jacket I paid only $60 (see burgundy jacket in last pic) that still has great value so do not mistake this as a justification for a high dollar bespoke coat. Rather, the point of this exercise is to encourage you to stay in this style journey and if you want to jumpstart it-jump into-the Style System. Perhaps seeing a knucklehead like me with nearly 50yrs in the game getting value out of the course is convincing. Perhaps you too might see some value for yourself. Looking forward to the next module.