Raw Materials - Osmanthus
Osmanthus (quite literally “fragrant flower”) is a flowering plant native to East Asia, known for its small, delicate blooms that emit a sweet, fruity aroma reminiscent of apricots and peaches. These flowers, typically white, yellow, or orange, are highly prized in perfumery, tea blends, and even culinary applications. Harvesting osmanthus is a delicate process that usually takes place in autumn, with flowers being carefully handpicked in the early morning when their fragrance is strongest. After harvesting, the flowers are often air-dried or processed immediately to preserve their scent, and in perfumery, they undergo extraction methods like solvent extraction to create a rich osmanthus absolute.
In men's fragrances, osmanthus is used to add a unique, sophisticated twist to the composition, offering a balance between fruity sweetness and deep, leathery undertones. While typically associated with feminine or unisex scents, osmanthus can provide warmth and complexity in masculine perfumes. Its apricot-like sweetness is often blended with spicy, woody, or earthy notes such as sandalwood, vetiver, or patchouli to create a rich, multi-layered fragrance. This versatile floral ingredient brings an unexpected softness that complements stronger, more traditionally masculine accords, making it ideal for modern, refined men's scents.
When I smell Osmanthus: It's not your typical floral, it’s soft… there’s this warm, fruity sweetness at first, but with a subtle richness beneath it. It’s smooth, but there’s also a slightly darker, leathery undertone that gives it depth, a kind of grounded masculinity, but in the background. The floral aspect isn't overpowering; instead, it feels balanced, like a bridge between something fresh and something earthy. Everything is light here. It’s the kind of scent that lingers, sophisticated but natural, with a warmth that stays with you.
(Note: The following examples have osmanthus in them, but not as a main note, more as a supporting player. Now that I have some experience sniffing the raw material, I can actually pick out this accord in these frags!!)
What say you Gents? Any experience with Osmanthus forward fragrances? What ones do you like or dislike? What ones out there would you like to try? And for you seasoned fragheads, what fragrances would you recommend to beginners? Love to hear from 'ya!
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Renato Carotti
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Raw Materials - Osmanthus
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