Givaudan and the Idea of “Sleeping Nose Receptors” Givaudan is doing some really interesting work in the science side of perfumery. They are studying what some people call “sleeping” or “silent” smell receptors in the nose. The way I understand it, our nose has hundreds of smell receptors, but science still has not completely matched every receptor to the exact scent molecules that activate it. Some receptors are difficult to study because they do not respond strongly in the lab, or they barely respond at all. That is why they are sometimes looked at as “silent” receptors. Givaudan found a way to make some of these receptors more sensitive during testing. By doing that, they were able to wake up or detect responses from receptors that were not really showing activity before. A simple way to picture it is this: Imagine the nose has hundreds of locked doors. The scent molecules are the keys. Scientists know the doors are there, but some of them will not open in the lab, so nobody really knows what keys fit them. Givaudan found a way to make some of those doors easier to test, and now they can start seeing which scent molecules fit which receptors. To me, this is a big deal for the future of fragrance. This does not mean Givaudan is literally spraying something in your nose to wake up receptors. It means they are learning more about the hidden parts of how we smell. They are trying to understand why certain materials smell fresh, musky, woody, creamy, floral, calming, clean, addictive, or realistic. For perfumery, this could eventually give perfumers more precision. Instead of only relying on trial and error, experience, and artistic instinct, they may be able to understand more clearly why certain molecules create certain effects. That could help create better musks, better citrus effects, more realistic naturals, smoother woods, cleaner replacements for restricted materials, and maybe even fragrances designed around mood, comfort, relaxation, or sleep. In my opinion, this is where fragrance is heading: part art, part science.

I get it. I'll readily admit that I'm picky when it comes to fragrances. I'm more likely to not like than to approve. There are several that I can fully respect and appreciate, even if they don't appeal to me, but I know how I am. When I do like them, they fall into two categories; ones that grab me immediately and ones that take time for things to warm up and click. That's why I like to take my time and try things repeatedly to see how they progress. A friend graciously offered to share a sample of Interlude 53 with me, which I very much appreciated. When I first tried it ... you know the old saying, square peg in a round hole? Well, it wasn't that. It was more of an oval peg in a round hole. It fit, but not exactly. But, even from that beginning, it very much intrigued me. So I put it aside and tried it here and there, letting myself learn its nuances and slowly taking the time for us to get to know each other. As I often do, I put on a fragrance to just enjoy for myself as I sit here on a Friday night. I decided to grab this one again (it's about gone at this point). Well, the tumblers on the safe finally clicked on the right combination and everything fell into place. It's smooth. It's deep. It's mature. It's patient. It carries a quiet confidence that doesn't need anyone's approval. It's the man that knows who he is and doesn't feel the need to try and impress anyone. In short, it was worth the wait for my senses and sensibilities to catch up to it. And it's really making me want to go put on a suit so I give it the respect it deserves. This feeling right here is exactly why I keep trying things. Because one day things might fall into place and I understand what has been sitting there all along.

It's a muggy 88 degrees here so I reached for one of my favorite fresh fragrances. Nautica Voyage will always be one of my go to scents on a hot day.

While I’m not an iris fan and therefore not in general of either the recent Gentleman iterations or the Dior Homme line, I do like this one (Reserve Privee). Why? The booze cleans up the iris.

Late afternoon wear. All of us know about the ubiquitous Boss Bottled line, but many fewer are aware of the criminally under-marketed niche-adjacent line (The Collection). Every bottle of this collection I own is impressive. I’m not sure why Boss keeps these way out of sight unless perhaps it’s the high retail price tag – $250-$300. You can snag them much less expensively, however. This citrus-forward fragrance is too elegant to be a freshie. The top citrus doesn’t burn off but is soon joined by the moss and patchouli. It makes for an uncharacteristically long-lasting and elegant summer offering.