Updated Pane Siciliano Formula & Baking Guide
Based on what we've learned in practice with this recipe, I'm adding a second version that folks may want to use.
This version lowers the hydration, swaps a fermentolyse for the autolyse, and adds in coil folds (and more folds) instead of stretch and folds during bulk. It also calls for slightly less rise during bulk fermentation and stitching during the final shape.
Note that I haven't tested this version yet but plan on doing that tomorrow.
Why the changes? My research this morning indicates that the gluten makeup in durum flour leads to lots of extensibility but very little elasticity. Lower hydration and more coil folds will help counter that. Adding the stiff starter right away will also help build structural integrity early in the process.
I would also advise against exceeding 60 minutes on either an autolyse or fermentolyse with durum flour. Both processes tend to favor extensibility (more so with an autolyse), and we already have an excess of that with durum flour.
So more to come as we learn together! Thank you for being part of this journey!
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Here's a breakdown comparing gluten in typical bread flour vs. durum flour:
Bread Flour: Contains a balanced ratio of gliadin (extensibility) and glutenin (elasticity/strength). This creates a viscoelastic network capable of significant expansion and gas retention.
Durum Wheat: Is exceptionally high in gliadin but lacks the high-molecular-weight glutenin subunits found in bread wheat.
Impact: Durum dough is highly extensible (it stretches easily) but has very low elasticity (it does not snap back). In sourdough, this often manifests as a dough that feels "slack" or flows outward rather than holding a tight, upright shape.
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David Bachman
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Updated Pane Siciliano Formula & Baking Guide
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