This potter is named Reida Sage, and here is her page... https://www.youtube.com/@reidasage

I was watching the latest Wocky Pots video today (by the way thoroughly enjoyed!) and they were talking about how much they would love Advancer shelves in the US, but how expensive they are. You may or may not know that I have a discount code for the UK. but some people here may not realise there is an option for a discount in the US too. My story..... Originally, I placed an order for just ONE Advancer shelf from KilnShelf UK and was then contacted by Malcolm, the Vice President of Advancer Shelves. He asked if I’d be interested in collaborating with them to help promote their new UK depot in Reading. In return, they kindly sent me one additional Advancer shelf and a couple of Advancer cookies! I was stoked! Since then, I’ve just been sharing my honest experience with them in my kiln opening videos. The discount code is FARFOREST for anyone interested in purchasing shelves in the UK, which gives 10% off. Quite a few people have now used it and I’m genuinely so pleased if it has helped anyone because these shelves are definitely an investment. Just to be completely transparent:👉 I do NOT receive any payment or commission if people use the code. I was then contacted by a few people in the US asking if the code could also work there. I spoke to Malcolm again and whilst they don’t currently offer a US website discount code (because demand there is already very high), he said they are happy to honour the 10% discount directly if people contact them by email and mention my name and the code FARFOREST. They are based in Missouri in the US. I realised after watching Wocky Pots today that not everyone may have seen me mention this in my videos, so I just wanted to make sure people were aware of the option — especially because any discount on Advancer shelves makes a big difference financially. If anyone would like the US contact details, just comment below and I’ll happily message them over 😊💜

This isn’t my idea. I’ve been seeing it on YouTube and enjoying what I’ve seen. So my question to you all is what pieces have you kept - one because you loved it and one because you kept it even though it was an epic fail? Pictures would be awesome. Honestly, I don’t have my favorite. My daughter has it and I don’t have a picture 😢 and I have too many fails to name ☹️

I’m very excited that the 2nd video from my Albuquerque trip will post at 1pm central time today! It’s only 21 minutes long, but packed full of behind the scenes tour and Coyote, Amaco and Mayco info. I hope you get a chance to watch it. Early views, likes and comments really help it reach more viewers! I will follow this up next week with a video about Coyote Clay.

Sorry that this is a bit long, but it's a detailed process that I find important. I'm sharing this in the hope that it helps others as much as it helped me. We've touched on this subject in a few posts lately, so I thought it might be useful to share this. There is more than one way to accomplish this test, as with all things. I'm not saying this way is better or other ways are wrong. CAVEAT: I am no expert, and I didn't come up with this method, but am passing it along. My source is Tim See. Many of you know him. He has a Facebook group called Tim See's Beginner Throwing Group, linked here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1835752663124936 where you will find references to this and many other subjects. It's a safe place to get accurate, tested information from a trusted source. Feel free to join his group, regardless of your skill level. It's a wealth of knowledge. Feel free to skip to the link at the very bottom for Tim See's instructions on making test bars. Now on to vitrification. I find it important to know that my functional wares won't leak or absorb food residue. The only way I know to do this is to test the vitrification of the pieces. While I'm at it, I also test the shrinkage rates. It's amazing that there is sometimes a fair amount of variation from what the manufacturer posts. These variations can be from differences in firing schedules, raw materials, and more. Here are some ground rules that I use religiously: 1. I always use cones on every shelf. It's the only way to verify the amount of heat work accurately. 2. I test every batch of clay, verified by the lot numbers on the boxes/bags 3. I keep a log of all my firings so I can refer back if there are any problems To make the test bars, cut or form a bar from your clay. Mark it with a 10 CM line (it's easier to calculate shrinkage), and the wet weight. I mark both ounces and grams. Use an accurate scale like a beam scale. It matters! Measure and weigh again at leather hard and bone dry, marking the bar each time.