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What’s one thing you wish more people understood about field work?
This one’s for the techs, leads, ops folks, even owners. Whether you're running routes or managing accounts, you've seen the same thing: - Miscommunication between sales and service - Unclear expectations from the customer - Gaps in what gets promised vs. what’s possible This isn’t a “blame” post — it’s a bridge post. A thread I saw recently put it perfectly: “Techs are the face the customer remembers. But we’re often sent in with no context, no rapport, and an uphill battle.” So let’s use this space right: - What’s something you wish sales knew about your day-to-day? - Or, if you're in sales — what’s something you wish techs understood about your role? — Ian Terry
ANT FIELD GUIDE — ID BASICS FOR PEST CONTROL SERVICE PROS
Most ant misidentification happens at the node level. If you’re not looking for the petiole structure — you’re working blind. This quick visual splits ants into two core categories: - One-node - Two-node From there, you can narrow based on size, color, behavior, and trailing. Why it matters, for example: - Argentine ants (1-node) form massive colonies and need perimeter baiting, not spot sprays. - Pharaoh ants (2-node) will split the colony if treated incorrectly. - Ghost ants (2-node) nest in voids and require gel placements, not barrier treatments. Each node type reacts differently to control methods. That’s why proper ID isn’t just academic — it’s operational. Here’s how I teach it in the field: 1. Node count first. 2. Trailing behavior second. 3. Nest site preference third. 4. Bait acceptance fourth. When that sequence becomes habit, misapplication goes down. Results go up. If you’re training new techs or want a better process for ID in the field, download the image or print it for your truck. — Ian Terry, CPO. Solve Pest Pros, Orlando.
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ANT FIELD GUIDE — ID BASICS FOR PEST CONTROL SERVICE PROS
The Worst German Roach Job You’ve Seen
We’ve all had those jobs where you open a cabinet and think: “Oh man… where do I even start?” Drop a photo or tell the story of your worst German roach job. - What did you try first? - What worked? - What didn’t? Let’s compare notes and build a blueprint for tackling the nastiest infestations.
Baiting for Ants...
Here is a video of me using Maxforce Complete... I know @Adam Murnane Loves this stuff because he requests it all the time when I order... ALWAYS bait around and mounds... Personally I think Maxforce Complete is one of the best baits available on the market.
Baiting for Ants...
What’s your routine on a follow-up visit — and how do you tell if a roach job is truly clean?
First thing I do when I walk in isn’t spray or bait — it’s look and listen. I go straight to the hot zones from my first visit — the map doesn’t change unless they do. I check traps, open hinges, and shine the light where it hurt last time. If bait’s untouched, I know placement or rotation needs work. If it’s chewed down and there’s fresh cast skins or pepper specs, I know we’re still mid-cycle. I vacuum any new debris, re-flush light areas to see who’s still hiding, and note exactly what I find — good or bad. A roach job is truly clean when: - Traps are empty two weeks in a row, - No new droppings or ootheca show up, and - Baits stay undisturbed because there’s nothing left to eat them. - That’s when I can finally write “Control achieved” — not because it looks clean, but because the room stayed quiet. “You don’t know it’s over when you stop seeing roaches. You know it’s over when they stop coming back.”
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Pest Control Pro Network
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