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I am in need of help with an ooooold system.
Its 50 years old this year! Only half the evaporator is getting cool/cold Top half is room temp Ive never put in refrigerant in the 28 years Ive lived here. Its R22, and I have some It has no piston, no txv, just a fixed tube/capillary system Soooo... is it just low after all these years? My house is about 82 degrees, out of the vents is about 72 degrees. But, how do you know how much to put in? Ive heard the old "beer can cold" analogy, which tells me nada Dont want to overfill it. Ive done auto ac's since the 1970s, have gauges for R22, just not sure what to do here, cant afford to replace it, and love its simplicity to be honest. I imagine if its a leak its a sloooow small one. Could be a schrader valve, hose, connection etc, or maybe something more serious, but want to try adding for now and see the results. No one can first believe this system is 50 years old, and most start talking about pistons and txv valves, which dont exist, which they also dont understand or believe. All the techs Ive talked to have never seen much less worked on a system this old So how to add and not overfill? I should add Im in Florida, its been in the upper 90s with heat index in the 106 degree feel like, with 80% humidity. So Im sure its struggling, Ive lived around here since 1977 and this is the hottest and most humid Ive ever experienced. Amazingly, typically my ac in the summer spikes my bill into the mid 200s, now its hit mid 300s for the first time. 1600sf house, 3 ton unit On another need, what is the absolute safest cleaner for the evaporator? It needs a cleaning (not that bad, just want to do it) and Ive read some cleaners are caustic. This evap is old so I want something that cleans but is completely safe for it Thanks
stack refrigerant using high pressure side question
Anyone know if you can stack refrigerant in compressor using the high pressure side of a heat pump? I have an obstruction on the high side so I can't pump refrigerant through the system and I don't have a recovery machine and tank.
Homeowner
I'm 87 but still active. I'm a DIY person and have installed my own solar system and just finished installing a 1 ton mini split that cost me $550.00 on Amazon. It is great. I have two Heat Pumps on my house in Yuma, AZ. I just added a soft start to one. Always can use help when something goes wrong with one of those units. I can also help anyone that wants to install a mini-split or soft start.
Before Replacing the HVAC, I Fixed the House—and It Worked
I wanted to share a DIY HVAC success story from our home in Central Florida. We have a 1,775-square-foot house with a 3-ton, single-stage Bryant system. For a long time, the house never seemed to perform as well as it should. The AC would run short cycles, humidity was inconsistent, some rooms were uncomfortable, and the system seemed to struggle even though it was technically cooling. Instead of immediately replacing the equipment, I started collecting data. I installed an Ecobee thermostat and placed multiple temperature and humidity sensors throughout the house, including the bathrooms, bedrooms, living areas, garage, and attic. I also used a thermal camera, an anemometer, a manometer, and temperature probes to start identifying where the house and duct system were losing performance. Here is what we found: • Several supply registers and return grilles were leaking air around the drywall openings. • The fireplace chase was open to the attic and allowing hot, humid attic air into the conditioned space. • Bathroom exhaust ducts and exterior terminations had damper and sealing issues. • The kitchen range hood had been running continuously and was depressurizing the house. • Some attic insulation had been disturbed or compressed. • The AC blower speed had a major effect on both temperature control and humidity. • The garage door, wall penetrations, and other envelope areas also needed attention. We sealed the supply and return openings, sealed the fireplace chase from above and below, corrected the bathroom exhaust venting, installed proper exterior dampers, sealed penetrations, and stopped running the range hood continuously. We also tested different blower settings instead of assuming the highest airflow was automatically best. The results have been significant. The house now feels noticeably colder and more comfortable at the same thermostat setting. The AC cycles are more stable, room-to-room temperatures are more consistent, and the humidity is under better control. We are comfortable around 72°F without needing a separate whole-house dehumidifier.
help with pc30 error code
I have a aciq-36-hpc and the beginning of the season for last 2 years it would always shut down do to high pressure (PC30) I fixed the crankcase heater that fell off and continued happening not sure if it fell off again or the might be too much refridgerant? or any other ideas?
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