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Owned by David

The DIY HVAC Community

115 members • Free

Welcome! This community is a great place to get answers to your DIY HVAC questions, see other peoples success stories, and just learn more about HVAC!

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8 contributions to The DIY HVAC Community
stack refrigerant using high pressure side question
Anyone know if you can stack refrigerant in compressor using the high pressure side of a heat pump? I have an obstruction on the high side so I can't pump refrigerant through the system and I don't have a recovery machine and tank.
0 likes • 6h
I’ve never heard of this being done. I think you are better off recovering the refrigerant than risking it to be honest. Let us know how it goes!
Homeowner
I'm 87 but still active. I'm a DIY person and have installed my own solar system and just finished installing a 1 ton mini split that cost me $550.00 on Amazon. It is great. I have two Heat Pumps on my house in Yuma, AZ. I just added a soft start to one. Always can use help when something goes wrong with one of those units. I can also help anyone that wants to install a mini-split or soft start.
0 likes • 11h
Thanks for sharing Lee! I moved this to the success story category. It’s so encouraging to hear folks that have successfully put in hvac systems and saved tons of money. I hope this community grows quickly so everyone can help each other out and capitalize on what we all have learned through our experience. Now you know where to go when you need some help! Cheers my friend 🍻
Before Replacing the HVAC, I Fixed the House—and It Worked
I wanted to share a DIY HVAC success story from our home in Central Florida. We have a 1,775-square-foot house with a 3-ton, single-stage Bryant system. For a long time, the house never seemed to perform as well as it should. The AC would run short cycles, humidity was inconsistent, some rooms were uncomfortable, and the system seemed to struggle even though it was technically cooling. Instead of immediately replacing the equipment, I started collecting data. I installed an Ecobee thermostat and placed multiple temperature and humidity sensors throughout the house, including the bathrooms, bedrooms, living areas, garage, and attic. I also used a thermal camera, an anemometer, a manometer, and temperature probes to start identifying where the house and duct system were losing performance. Here is what we found: • Several supply registers and return grilles were leaking air around the drywall openings. • The fireplace chase was open to the attic and allowing hot, humid attic air into the conditioned space. • Bathroom exhaust ducts and exterior terminations had damper and sealing issues. • The kitchen range hood had been running continuously and was depressurizing the house. • Some attic insulation had been disturbed or compressed. • The AC blower speed had a major effect on both temperature control and humidity. • The garage door, wall penetrations, and other envelope areas also needed attention. We sealed the supply and return openings, sealed the fireplace chase from above and below, corrected the bathroom exhaust venting, installed proper exterior dampers, sealed penetrations, and stopped running the range hood continuously. We also tested different blower settings instead of assuming the highest airflow was automatically best. The results have been significant. The house now feels noticeably colder and more comfortable at the same thermostat setting. The AC cycles are more stable, room-to-room temperatures are more consistent, and the humidity is under better control. We are comfortable around 72°F without needing a separate whole-house dehumidifier.
0 likes • 11h
Thank so much for sharing Dean! That’s great to hear that you were able to get your system performing better. A lot of folks think bigger is better but that’s absolutely not the case. Thanks for sharing!
0 likes • 11h
@Jason Millsap I’ve used these before and they work great for measuring temp and humidity in any location 👍🏼 https://geni.us/4U03S
help with pc30 error code
I have a aciq-36-hpc and the beginning of the season for last 2 years it would always shut down do to high pressure (PC30) I fixed the crankcase heater that fell off and continued happening not sure if it fell off again or the might be too much refridgerant? or any other ideas?
0 likes • 1d
I moved this to troubleshooting just FYI. The crankcase heater will not trigger a high pressure sensor. I would look at the coil if it is dirty this can cause high pressure, and then obviously the high pressure switch. Could be faulty or a loose connection.
0 likes • 11h
@Ari Schachter Ok. I’d start by checking that high pressure sensor with a multimeter. Here is what you would do. Touch the multimeter probes to the two metal terminals on the switch. - Good: The multimeter beeps or shows 0 ohms. This means the circuit is closed and the switch is passing electricity. - Bad: The multimeter shows "OL" (Open Line) or a high resistance value. The internal circuit is broken, meaning the switch has failed and needs to be replaced. Then we can go from there. Best, Dave
I am in need of help with an ooooold system.
Its 50 years old this year! Only half the evaporator is getting cool/cold Top half is room temp Ive never put in refrigerant in the 28 years Ive lived here. Its R22, and I have some It has no piston, no txv, just a fixed tube/capillary system Soooo... is it just low after all these years? My house is about 82 degrees, out of the vents is about 72 degrees. But, how do you know how much to put in? Ive heard the old "beer can cold" analogy, which tells me nada Dont want to overfill it. Ive done auto ac's since the 1970s, have gauges for R22, just not sure what to do here, cant afford to replace it, and love its simplicity to be honest. I imagine if its a leak its a sloooow small one. Could be a schrader valve, hose, connection etc, or maybe something more serious, but want to try adding for now and see the results. No one can first believe this system is 50 years old, and most start talking about pistons and txv valves, which dont exist, which they also dont understand or believe. All the techs Ive talked to have never seen much less worked on a system this old So how to add and not overfill? I should add Im in Florida, its been in the upper 90s with heat index in the 106 degree feel like, with 80% humidity. So Im sure its struggling, Ive lived around here since 1977 and this is the hottest and most humid Ive ever experienced. Amazingly, typically my ac in the summer spikes my bill into the mid 200s, now its hit mid 300s for the first time. 1600sf house, 3 ton unit On another need, what is the absolute safest cleaner for the evaporator? It needs a cleaning (not that bad, just want to do it) and Ive read some cleaners are caustic. This evap is old so I want something that cleans but is completely safe for it Thanks
0 likes • 1d
Hey there Cliff! Wow that is impressive. I'd love to see some images of that unit! They dont make them like they used to! Have you put a set of gauges on the system to see where the pressures are? That is really the only way to tell for certain if it is low on refrigerant. I have seen some older systems, where the pressure differential is not much, meaning, your low side and high side are very similar. So that is something to look for. On an r22 system on a hot day, you are generally going to be in the 70-75 psi low side, and 250-280 on the high side. What you can also do is get your manifold and tank set up and burped, ready to add refrigerant, and just keep a thermometer at your vents. Throttle in just a small amount and let it run for 5-10 minutes, see if your temp at the register goes down a degree or two, then continue until you get to your target which is 17-20 degree temp drop. Anyways I hope this helps! Let us know what you end up finding! Oh and on the evaporator coil cleaner this is the one i'd recommend for sure: https://amzn.to/3Tf9qvX It is near neutral so will not effect your coil negatively. Cheers 🍻
0 likes • 1d
Absolutely it is for evap coils and condenser coils alike. But honestly, you could vacuum it and rinse it with water and be totally fine. Also of condenser coils only recommend rinsing with water. Totally your call, but I wouldnt question using the coil cleaner I recommended. Best, Dave
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David S
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@david-stojic-3574
Hello! My name is Dave and I am an HVAC Contractor In Salt Lake City, helping DIY'ers to save tons of money with all things HVAC!

Active 6h ago
Joined Jul 20, 2026
Salt Lake City, Ut
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