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The DIY HVAC Community
197 members • Free
6 contributions to The DIY HVAC Community
3d •
Colorado AC replacement
Have a Condo that was built in 2017 that I moved in a few years ago in Greeley, CO. A few weeks ago, the compressor blew out (see pictures), and on my very limited single dad budget, been trying to find a solution while the mid-90's temps continue here in Colorado. I've been in construction a long time as a PM, and do some very light handyman work on the side, so when I started receiving quotes to replace just the compressor at around $5-6k and know that full system replacements are more like $15k, I knew I needed to find another way. Thankful to find the DIY HVAC YouTube channel which gave me hope that I can do this... The only things I'm unsure of is handling the refrigerant (I don't have the EPA 608 cert), and finding the correct info on sizing. The existing unit is a Lennox system that was installed when the place was built in 2017 (yes I checked warranties and supposedly there was only a 5 year warranty on it). The current outside condensing unit is a 1.5 ton unit and the inside air handler that is above the gas furnace is a 2 ton air handler with R-410A. It appears as though my gas furnace could go up to 3 ton with it's blower capacity. My condo is a 2 story with an unfinished basement (that I had planned on finishing before this happened), current finished space is around 1500 sq ft and total area is around 2300 sq ft. Using basic online calculators it is suggesting like a 4-5 ton, but I don't want to upgrade the furnace so I was thinking of doing a 2.5 to 3 ton unit. With the sales this weekend I am really tempted to jump on the HVACDirect deals on the ACiQ 3 Ton 15.6 SEER2 High Efficiency Air Conditioner with 17.5" Multi-Positional Cased Coil | Inverter - R454B. Maybe I'm going to far with doing a full replace and can somehow just find a compressor and replace it? Any thoughts? If I do go forward with the full AC replace, is that above system a good choice? Should I clean out my existing line set and reuse or just order and run a new one? It looks like I need to get a permit just to replace my AC system here in Greeley, so I'm planning to look into that. I also plan to reach out to the few HVAC connections I have to see what it would take to have them draw down the refrigerant in the current system since I can't pull it into the compressor since it blew. Anyway, just hoping to have other speak some wisdom into my situation if possible and I will keep looking through other's experiences and DIY HVAC's videos.
0 likes • 1d
@Nate Patrick Got it. On another note, are you sure your compressor is shorted out? Maybe the plug wiggled out from vibrations and made a bad connection. A bad connection leads to higher resistance and arcing. That too can blow out and melt the plug. Did you test the compressor with a multimeter? Pull the safety disconnect switch at the condenser unit if not done yet. 1. Prepare the ground point: Scrape away any paint or dirt on a bare copper suction/discharge line or the outer compressor shell to ensure a clean metal-on-metal contact point. 2. Set the multimeter: Turn your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) or continuity (beeper) setting. Touch the two meter probes together first to verify your meter makes a sound or reads zero. 3. Test terminals to ground: Place one probe on your clean ground point (copper pipe or bare metal chassis). Touch the other probe to each of the three compressor electrical terminals one by one. - Good compressor: The meter should read OL (Open Line/Open Limit), meaning no connection exists between the electrical winding and the metal ground. A new plug and cleaning / fixing the socket may solve your issue. - Shorted compressor: If the meter beeps, shows continuity, or displays a very low resistance value (ohms), the internal motor windings are touching the grounded metal shell. A shorted compressor means the unit is burned out and must be replaced. A bad capacitor can also cause the plug to melt and blow out. Check the cap too. 1. Discharge the capacitor by placing an insulated screwdriver across the terminals to bleed off stored voltage. 2. Set Meter to Microfarads (µF): Use a multimeter that has a capacitance setting. 3. Test the Leads: Measure the resistance between the Herm terminal (compressor) and the Common (C) terminl. 4. Compare to Label: Read the rating on the side of the capacitor (e.g., 45/5 µF). The "45" is for the compressor. If your meter reads significantly below that rating (usually +/- 5% or 6% tolerance), the capacitor is bad and must be replaced.
0 likes • 24h
@Nate Patrick Yes, I saw those photos. That can happen with a loose connection and / or a bad cap. None of that says that the compressor is shorted. Also, HVAC techs love to up-sell homeowners into replacements. Test it as suggested with a multimeter. If you have none, you can get a decent one on Amazon for $37: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance-Temperature/dp/B07SHLS639 If it was all based on a loose connection and / or bad cap, the repair would be below $100 for a plug repair kit and a new cap. That being said, if you have no background in basic electronics, owning a multimeter is part of that, I'm not sure that a full DIY system replacement is a good match. In my opinion, doing DIY on HVAC does require a good amount of existing skills in electronics, using all kinds of hand tools, understanding of mechanics, etc.
10d •
Cooper and Hunter 12K mini split install
Looking for help troubleshooting a New Cooper and Hunter 12k R410a mini split freon pressures are good but only getting slightly cool air 60* out of the unit. any ideas?
0 likes • 9d
Double-check that both the liquid and suction service valves on the outdoor unit are fully backseated (completely open). A partially closed service valve can restrict proper mass flow while giving a deceptive static or running pressure reading. Did you get any non-condensables into the system when you hooked up the lines? Did you pull a proper vacuum based on a micron gauge?
1 like • 7d
@Scott Pilger Did you pull well below 500 microns? There seem to be a refrigerant restriction causing a premature pressure drop and flash-gas expansion right inside that drier, turning it into an accidental evaporator. Use an infrared or clamp thermometer to measure the line temperature exactly before the filter drier and exactly after the filter drier. If there is a temperature drop of more than 1°F to 2°F across the drier, the drier is fundamentally restricted and acts as a blockage. If it's below 2 F, strip back the insulation along the liquid line, especially around the outdoor unit connections, to check for a structural kink. If a real temperature drop is confirmed across the drier, you will need to recover the refrigerant, cut out the restricted drier, braze or flare in a new matching Bi-Flow Liquid Line Filter Drier while flowing nitrogen, pull a verified deep vacuum under 500 microns, and weigh back in a fresh factory charge. Look for any copper shavings in the dryer. If there's any I'd flush the lines or install new ones. Also, keep in mind that the EPA requires a 608 cert for any handling of refrigerant. You can study for that cert on Skillcat, their course is roughly 9 hours, and you can do the exam with them too. First 3 days are free.
24d •
One warm room
Hello everyone! I’ve got one room that is consistently warm. The air duct is getting cold air, but I have to keep the door open to the hallway to keep it from getting warm. There is no return in that room. Do y’all think installing a return will help? It’ll cost thousands. Thanks in advance!
0 likes • 10d
Install a Pressure Balancing Vent in the door, and add an AC Infinity duct fan in the flexible duct if needed. They can be adjusted in speed. Either takes half an hour.
0 likes • 9d
@Dennis McCarty Return it is.
10d •
I just joined
...and replied to a couple threads, and read the rest. My first thought is that nobody around here so far seems to be in a state where they could pull off an install. There is a massive gap between somebody who knows how to build an IKAE set or drill a hole in the wall, and installing a complete HVAC system. I was expecting to find DIYers that are used to pulling an engine from their car in order to replace the cam. I'd consider those type of DIYers a good match for leaning how to do HVAC. But what I'm seeing so far are folks that don't want to get ripped off, but completely lack any proper handyman skills. And I don't think that many are willing to fill in the HVAC skill and knowledge gap in this busy world, next to a full time job and family obligations. Maybe this will change over time and Dave's YT channel is the best starting point. That being said, he as been around for years. I don't think that most homeowners understand how much they have to catch up to make this work for themselves. I think new members to this forum should be informed right away, that DIY in this field requires true commitment. They won't get solution by asking questions and then not even coming back to their own thread, let alone buying the suggested tools and actually getting it started. Wonder how many bought some tools and soon gave up.
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Jul 31 •
Newbee
Love the channel..I am a DIYer but have not attempted replacing a system/unit so my question is i have a 15 year old Lennox. Still cools here in hot Georgia but where do I need to begin when this thing starts to give up the ghost? Appreciate any input....
0 likes • 10d
@Bo Lash Start now with buying tools and learning, don't wait till it goes out or you will make mistakes or end up calling a tech after all. Test and log your system once a year, so you know when there's a leak forming in a coil or the compressor starts losing insulation. That way you can time your replacement to be in the next winter, instead of dealing with the heat in the summer.
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