‘Everyday Bread’  (60% Whole Wheat)
‘Everyday Bread’ (60% Whole Wheat)
This is the same recipe listed in the new King Arthur's ‘Big Book of Bread' on page 129.
Total dough: 743 grams
Total flour: 376 grams
  • 60%, 226 g, Whole wheat flour
  • 40%, 150 g, AP flour
  • 75.4%, 284 g, milk
  • 7.4%, 28 g, butter
  • 11%, 42 g, honey
  • 1.9%, 7 g, salt
  • 1.6%, 6 g, instant yeast.
Baked in an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2", standard loaf pan.
Method:
  1. Mix all ingredients and let them rest for 15 min. To hydrate & soften the bran.
  2. Transfer the dough to a wet surface and knead or slap & fold until a tacky, springy dough forms
  3. Proof until doubled about 1hour.
  4. Shape and place in the loaf pan. Top with wheat germ if desired.
  5. Let rise until the loaf crowns about 1" over the edge of the pan, 1 1/2 hours.   
  6. Bake at 350°F for 35-40 min. 
One loaf is made using King Arthur’s ‘Golden Wheat Flour’ and the other their ‘Whole Wheat Flour’. ‘Whole Wheat Flour’ is made from hard red spring or winter wheat. ‘Golden Wheat Flour’ is made from a different variety of wheat. It’s made with whole hard white spring or winter wheat, resulting in a paler color, and its taste is milder.
It also has more extensibility than regular whole wheat flour, meaning it can stretch and form a dough more easily due to its milder bran particles, which interfere less with gluten development, resulting in a dough with better elasticity and less density compared to traditional whole wheat flour. It makes for a ‘Less Dense Loaf’.
Both loaves were made exactly the same except for the variety of whole wheat flour.
In the pictures, the loaf and the crumb on the right are made with the ‘Golden Wheat Flour.' Notice the increased volume of the loaf on the right.
What is ‘Whole Grain’?
If we think of a grain of wheat as an egg,
  • The outer hard shell is the 'Bran’.
  • The inner yolk, which is the most nutrient-rich part, is the ‘Germ’.
  • The egg white that can be whipped up into an airy meringue is the ‘Endosperm’.
We get ‘Whole Grain’ flour by milling the ‘Whole Grain’ of wheat, including all three parts.
AP and Bread flour have most of the Bran and Germ removed.
Two problems have to be addressed when using ‘Whole Gran flour.'
  • Whole Wheat flour has a higher protein level but a lower gluten-forming protein level than the same volume of AP or Bread flour. The gluten-forming proteins are found in the endosperm of the wheat grain. Most of the non-gluten-forming proteins are found in the ‘Germ’. For a given volume of flour, say 1 cup, Whole Wheat flour has less gluten-forming protein than AP or Bread flour, even though it contains the whole grain. The cup of AP and Bread flour has a concentration of the protein found in the endosperm. A cup of Whole Wheat flour has space taken up by the Bran and the germ, so less of its volume comes from the endosperm
  • The hard outer shell, or the Bran, has sharp edges and can damage or cut gluten strands.
Tips:
1. Gluten needs two of its characteristics developed to get the optimum rise.
  • Strength: This is developed by kneading. If we do not develop strength, the gluten structure or skeleton can collapse, resulting in a flat bread, especially in a freestanding loaf. In a ‘Pan Loaf’ the pan acts as an exoskeleton, giving added support to a dough whose strength has not been developed as far due to fear of the Bran cutting the gluten.
  • Extensibility: This is the gluten network's ability to stretch. The ideal dough is strong and can stretch. But if a dough has poor strength, the ability to stretch is more important. We can increase the ‘Extensibility’ by selecting a Whole Wheat flour such as that milled from whole hard white spring or winter wheat or by increasing the hydration. The extra water is absorbed by the bran. The ‘Everyday Bread’ recipe has a hydration of 75.5%.
2. It’s particularly important to let ‘Whole Grain” dough rest or autolyze after it’s mixed but before it’s kneaded, as it gives the Bran in the whole wheat flour time to hydrate and soften. Softened Bran will damage the gluten less than hard Bran.
3. Do not overknead high concentrations of ‘Whole Grain” dough in a stand mixer for fear of damaging the gluten network. Knead by hand, performing a few ‘Slap and Folds’ until the dough comes together. Do this on a wet surface with wet hands so as not to add flour, which will reduce the hydration.
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Timothy McQuaid
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‘Everyday Bread’  (60% Whole Wheat)
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