Nikolai Incense Oud (1/3) · Brotherhood Of Scent

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Nikolai Incense Oud (1/3)

Thanks to

for giving me a bunch of Nikolai samples a few months back. Today i tried Nicolai Incense Oud and this one immediately made it clear that it was goimg to be a badass gentleman.

There is a lot going on right from the opening. It comes off sharp, screechy, medicinal, and animalic. The closest comparison I can make is YSL Kouros. In the opening, I clearly get artemisia and ambrette. Interestingly, some notes that are officially listed as mid notes show up almost instantly, especially cypriol oil, rose, and patchouli.

Around the 10-15 minute mark, woods start to emerge. I assume this is the Cambodian oud, though I want to be clear that I have essentially no real experience with oud fragrances. The only “oud” I have tried before is Y Elixir. So this is very much new territory.

As it moves into the drydown, the scent becomes denser and more textured. I start getting coriander, dry incense, castoreum, styrax, amber, and musk. It never really becomes smooth or comforting, but it does become more coherent and intentional.

Performance is excellent. Projection is strong and longevity is easily 7-9 hour, and that is without heavy spraying. I was getting around 2 feet of projection on non moisturised skin for a good 4-5 hours, which likely means an extra 1-2 hours of longevity and up to 3 feet of projection on moisturised skin.

This is a very challenging fragrance for me. There are a lot of unfamiliar notes here, and oud is clearly something I am not ready for yet. At certain moments, it smelled like bleach or a strong herbal balm. At other times, it smelled genuinely unique, woody, and even slightly citrusy. Overall, it smells much better in the air than up close on skin.

I genuinely cannot score this fragrance. That has never happened to me before, which is surprising in itself. It is extremely unique and very confusing to my nose, but if I had to force a number, it would be nothing less than an 8. If you enjoy YSL Kouros, this is absolutely worth trying.

Fun fact. Al Woud by Boadicea the Victorious is essentially a copy of this scent and was released four years after Incense Oud.

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