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Creative 3D Community

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Paid Courses Question on Surface Modelling
Hi everyone, brand new here - just joined the community 5 mins ago. I've been lurking on Nikita's YT channel for ages, bought a 3d printer 6 months ago with a view to getting into some product design projects which I started a few months ago. I'm interested in surface modelling, but unsure which course bundle might best suit me: the motorycles surface modelling or ultimate surface modelling bundle. Can anyone explain to me the difference between them other than a few dollars? I'm drawn to the motorcycle bundle for the sorts of curves in that project, and the fact I ride a motorcycle... which admittedly is a pretty poor reason. I want to learn to model complex organic shapes, in order to create biophilic designs (ie designs that mimic nature's geometry and creates a natural touch and feel experience). I also need to learn basic product design methods for other projects, eg I just created a camera lens adapter that fits to the 15mm rods on my cinema camera rig; but it's not what I'd call a beautiful design, merely functional... Any advice much appreciated. Tom
0 likes β€’ Mar '25
@Mw Siebert Thanks, nice to meet you virtually
0 likes β€’ Mar '25
@Daniel Martinez Yes supports is one of those things with 3D printing that is just a weakness of the 3D printing process itself. What I'm learning is that there are ways to minimise this problem. I've had some success with manually "painting on the supports" rather than leaving the algorithm to do it automatically. The auto supports seems to use too much support a lot of the time, meaning more surface damage. Manually painting the supports allows you to use for example a smaller contact patch, which will be easier to break off. But you have to check the topology of the model in the slicer: after slicing a model, you can view the layers - layer by layer - and see how the plastic is being laid down where the supports are placed. By doing this, you can see where the support is really needed, and where it is not. It's time consuming, but it's the only way to know how much support is really needed. The other option is to design your models in such a way that supports are not needed. For each new filament I use, I will print various test models such as an overhangs test. This tells me for example that my printer generally produces very clean overhangs in PLA and PETG up to about 50 to 55 degrees, beyond which overhangs get progressively worse. Your P1P will probably perform about the same, this is just a weakness of 3D printing. So if you design your models to avoid any overhangs beyond this degree, you will not need any supports. That's generally what I try to do as much as possible. It's really surprising just how much the slicer settings have an impact on the need for supports. With some practice, you can sometimes get away with no support just with some changes to your slicer settings. There's a really small YouTube channel called "RA DIY PRINTS" that has some really good videos about this, if you're using Orca Slicer (it's a fork of Bamboo Slicer, itself a fork of Prusa Slicer - so the same settings should be available whichever slicer you use, but might be labelled differently or organised in different settings panels). A while back I think I also watched some YT videos on settings to make supports come away more easily, so you can also search on that topic.
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Tom Board
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@tom-board-7457
Here to learn product design. Love Japanese aesthetics, minimalist design, classic vehicles (own a Ducati 996) and biophilic design.

Active 116d ago
Joined Mar 15, 2025
INTP
Portsmouth, United Kingdom
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