I want to practice painting with my gun and I was wondering what would be a good inexpensive paint to do that with? I was thinking. Of practicing with a primer, base, and clear. But it may be better just to find a cheap paint to get good technique.

Picked these up cheapp(1$ a sheet). This is not the autobody specific abrasive. What i found is "It received a major product line update and formula overhaul starting in late 2019, when 3M integrated Cubitron II industrial precision-shaped grain technology into the consumer line." Seems to work well the abrasive bites into the surface so you dont feel like you have to apply much pressure

Aaron, Wanted to share pics and extend many thanks for your help and advice on all the processes!! Thank you for all you do!! I finished spraying the 65 Mustang on Saturday!! As you may recall, it’s Sherwin William’s “Ford Poppy Red” base and their DC5020 clear. Spraying the clear was tricky with the back to back “wet on wet” coats with no flash time - per the TDS. I’m letting it cure, and will begin the cut and buff process this upcoming weekend. I had some dust that settled on the clear and two small runs (wet on wet clear was tricky to spray - finished a panel and then resprayed the same panel again). Next project is the Mini-Bus in “Hawaiian purple pearl”. Will be diving into it as soon as this one is reassembled. Thanks again!! Talk to you on Saturday!! Bill

Youtube taught me to use epoxy on metal and over filler. But... If your sealer is an epoxy, this step can be skipped? So instead of epoxy on filler ud be applying reduced epoxy over 2k, before base. My guess: yes it would work. Why wouldnt it. Another headscratcher.. spi epoxy tds says 320grit over paint at most. But sealer requires 400 so how would that work even? My guess: idk, analysis paralysis. 320 what if it shows, 400 what if it doesnt adhere.. need Aaron on this one I got a quart kit of epoxy, planned to use a bit for bare metal and seal everything before base but now im thinking i might run out, and my 2k urethane states you can base over it without sealer. So maybe thats the way...cuz i have a gallon kit of the 2k.. My guess: its spi so if they say you can apply color over their 2k urethane they are not lying. It would just come down to color. Black epoxy sealer would work only for very dark colors: dark cherry red, dark blue, midnight purple, but grey would work for pretty much anything except for white yellow and like that I grabbed the black epoxy and if used as a sealer it limits the colors you can do but the urethane is grey so the choices would open up.. tbh. I dont care what color it will be.

I am looking closely at finishing off the internal cavity areas of my car body. I'd like to get feedback on what other people are doing in this regard and what products they use. I found a lot of info on what layer process should be used for the external finishing but internally things are not as clear.... I have given the insides of the body panels 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer. After scuffing with a red scotchbrite I was going to apply 2 or 3 heavy coats of uPol Gravitex. This would be applied to the insides of just about anywhere I can get to (inside rear quarters, inside door skins, pillars, front fenders), most of these areas would not get any other paint applied. However, areas that get seen such as inside the rear quarter panels (in the trunk area), would get colour/clear finish on top. So please share what you found works, what is best practice and products are junk and what works for you. Thanks,