There are a bunch of different options for buying the LPH-80. The model I purchased was the 1.0 needle with the E4 air cap. I saw an Iwata video using one for a “smart repair”, so i chose that combo - because I could see it had a good spray pattern, etc. Although mine came with a nice metal cup, I purchased a PPS adapter to use the mini cups. I tried buying a PPS 1.0 adapter from eBay only to find the threads on the cheap Chinese knock off wouldn’t screw into the gun. It could be possible to force it (it is aluminum), but instead I found and use a genuine 3M adapter. If you get one. I wouldn’t go with a Chinese reproduction PPS adapter. The LPH-80 sprays really nice and you can dial the fan pattern in to spray like an air brush, if needed. It is an LVLP gun and I keep the pressure at 1 bar. There is really almost no overspray. Also, you can get it into very tight spaces. This gun is also the one that cerecote recommends for spraying their ceramic coatings. Which is another reason I went with the gun, so I can use those coatings on exhaust headers. Overall, I’m happy with this gun. Prior to this gun, I bought and used a HF cheap purple touch up gun for around $12. It sprayed surprisingly good. I painted some valve covers and an engine air cleaner with one and they turned out pretty good. It must be a knock off of another gun. I hope this helps you. Only other touch up gun I’ve sprayed with is an antique Binks siphon cup gun.

Kyle - I really like the way you have everything organized! I need to look at how I can rearrange things to be more efficient. I find myself walking back and forth all the time looking for what I need. I have sanding blocks piled on a work table (some in a drawer) and masking tape in a sealed plastic tub. All my sand paper stock is in an old chest of drawers against the wall. What complicates it are the different types of sanding paper I have - sheets, and rolls of H&L and PSA. Also 5 and 6 inch sanding discs (H&L and PSA). I keep my air/ battery operated tools in a large drawer at the bottom of my tool chest. Once again- against a wall. Cleaning stuff is also in a cabinet against the wall. I just need to figure out what I should put in a cart - ie. most used stuff, or based on the longest stage - bodywork??

Not sure if you removed the badge yet. If not, I recommend trying some fishing line first- to carefully remove the badge. Maybe you can get it off without damaging the paint. Then you can use an eraser wheel on a drill to remove the residue on the hood. If you already removed it and the paint lifted, you will need to sand it - to feather edge the area. Assuming the paint is base/clear vs single stage, you’ll need to do a spot repair/blend with the basecoat and then clear the entire hood. If you go to bare metal, treat it with an etch wipe before primer. Urethane DTM is acceptable, but epoxy is best for bare metal, but you have to wait several days for it to cure. I’m not an expert by any means, but I think this is the process.

Looks great, thanks for sharing the pics!

Welcome to the community! Sounds like you have a lot of time invested in the restoration. I look forward to seeing pics as you move to paint and clear coat.