@Adam Franco could be 2K clear if customer says not PPF.

@Vincent Rodriguez not sure I understand the question but will try to clear it up. If there’s PPF on the lights, and they need to be replaced, no need to coat the lights prior to placing new PPF on them. Majority of high end PPF films are 99% UV resistant. Lower end films won’t do as well. In fact personally PPF would be a big money maker however with so many different designs of headlights The leaning curve applying these films is a great challenge. It’s not as easy as applying to flat panels. But the uv protection and the impact protection is an added bonus. And in most cases of the PPF gets beat up with dings and filth from road debris, you can easily remove and most times the light underneath will be good as new. There are some questionable aspects for using on headlights I haven’t found answers to, but I’d say it’s a pretty safe option for protection. The longevity is second to none vs coatings.

I give 6 months on a 1 year coating. Normally I don’t give a warranty. Never had a call back. In fact I’ve hit previous customers up nearly 1.5 years later as an annual reminder that if they need lights restored again, it may be time to schedule. Did not redo a single set. The truth? Majority won’t remember a year later, pay any attention or will bother when the coating fails. Most people know it will return hazy or yellow at some point. Warranties just play the role of gaining nearly instant trust, make them feel better about spending your asking price, and helps them justify the buy a little easier. Instead I use a different strategy that takes the responsibility off of me and my work, and places it on the customer. In am also very clear on their expectations and reality of restored headlights. Never had an issue, all customers satisfied, and not a single call back. Not one freebie for a do over. FL here…

Polishing will depend on the type or coating you use. Most coatings will need a slightly scuffed light anywhere between 800-3000 grit sanding marks left in order to really bond to the plastic. Garbage 1 and 2K clears bond at 600/800 grit sanded surfaces. The coating I use which is Meguiars bonds at 3000 grit (I use to polish and I’ll share why I don’t anymore). Others can bond to a polished light but the prep to ensure there’s ZERO residue left behind is 1,000 % important!! I use to polish to perfection after 3000 grit and stopped for two main reasons. #1 - I save time not polishing and don’t have to be concerned with battery life on my drill, keeping pads clean and saving money on product. # 2 - After I ran out of my fav polish which is Meguiars M205 (could be 105, one of them is compound the other polish) I Used another polish which was phenominal in terms of hydration, and appearance… HOWEVER, this particular polish left behind thin residue that you cannot see or feel even after prepping. And it affected the longevity of the coating causing the lights to oxidize prematurely. I figured this out by mistake… Because I go D2D, I’ve revisited certain areas where I’ve had customers before. Nearly 9 months later o notice two vehicles I did after switching polish and they began to look a bit hazy, some minor yellowing when the sun hit. It deeply bothered me although I’ve never had a customer ever contact me about premature yellowing after explaining the coating lasts 13-15 months. Partly because I set real expectations, but secondly because they probably just didn’t care to bother since majority of my time doing this I hadnt offered any guarantee. So I completely cut polishing and I find in truth that the finished look really didn’t make any difference. Still crystal clear. The difference however is now the coating bonds better to the light which is actually instructed to use with zero polishing steps. So if you polish, I’d choose wisely. A polish that has a lot of lubricity and is more oil based is going to leave residue. Even using alcohol to prep it’s hard to really tell if you’ve cleared it probably of any oils left behind before coating.

@Clayton Byrd I have multiple variations but the foundation has always been the same. Hey how are you? My name is Mike and I’m in the area today restoring headlights. I noticed yours are yellowing probably making it harder to see at night. Would you like a price as I can get them crystal clear so is much brighter and safer to drive? Based on that I switch my approach or variations. I use different strategies to peak interest and also use different pricing approaches. Sometimes cutting a deal as an on the spot incentive etc.

@Keat Simon FL is a big state to say it’s your territory lol. And everybody is an expert these days…. Trust me when I say I don’t see anybody as competition… the ego won’t go far if that’s what you want to follow.

@Carlos Cortes yea you’re correct but why would I ask you if I’ve done many Silverados myself? lol and yes the drips have happened to me which I’ve had to correct on the fly and level off the coating very quickly!

Every coating cures fully in 24 hours. majority of wipes and ceramics dry to the touch in a few hours time. Leaving in the sun often helps cure the light under its natural uv to level it out after the flash off. I know nothing about Jason’s products but this is the general nature of what I’ve learned.