My two cents -- your finger strength is not going to change radically under any 9-week plan. We're playing a long-game. For me, the value is having a structured plan that integrates well with climbing. I'm in week 8 now, and here's what I've noticed. - Modest gains (more than I anticipated though) - My fingers feel healthy - My fingers feel strong - I feel good on the wall I now have a template and a method of finger training that doesn't tax my fingers in an unsustainable way. I have had multiple finger injuries over the years, and they absolutely suck and one step forward, three steps back gets really exhausting. We have to be super careful on loading our fingers, and this course has provided me the tools to properly manage load while still finding progress. I will likely cycle through this or variations on this for a long time to come. It's simple, I've found it effective, and it has helped me protect myself from overdoing it.

@Tore Johan Olaussen That’s awesome to hear! I’m staring at 50 in less than a year as well, and I’m determined not to lose any more time. I used to try to find the line, but now I’m more focused on feeling good and really trying to not focus so much on the near term.

@Collin McGee question on talon ball grip. Does the orientation matter? I have seen in Tyler’s demos that it looks like he is pulling the device with palm perpendicular to the ground (like an edge pull would be). Several of the devices I see (frictitious as an example) have the cord through the center which naturally orients your palm parallel to the ground. Does orientation matter? If it does, when pulling perpendicular, are you trying to resist the palm moving parallel to the ground? Or is the cord set up so that it naturally orients in that direction?

@Collin McGee thanks!

I haven’t used the tension edge for training, but I have devices from specialized masochism. He has a few different devices — I use both the Overcome and Resist edges (Resist is a half-crimp edge) regularly. They have customizable sizing and I’ve found they fit my hand better than any other device I’ve tried. He is super responsive to any questions you might have and I highly recommend. He’s also worth a follow on Instagram as he puts out a ton of educational content as well.