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Owned by Collin

Rock climbing training & education: stronger fingers, a stronger body to help prevent injury, and a better game plan to become a better climber.

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15 contributions to Rock Climbing Performance
Unlevel or not
Hello Guys, Would you recommend using the unlevel edge just for the finger curls, or both for the finger curls and the block lifts ? Cheers
0 likes • 12d
Hey! I personally recommend the unlevels for 90% off all your work, especially in the general fitness side of things. The flat and smaller edges come out when you want to specify your strength adaptations.
0 likes • 6d
@Mathias Zamęcki That one is great too! and either the Overcome, Resist, or Reinforce. If I had to get one to start, it would be the ovecome!
Number of sets in Train Heroic
@Collin McGee Is the number of sets in the Train Heroic app the right number of sets for the 9-week program workouts? Some exercises have only 2 or 3 sets.
1 like • May 6
Correct! It is a strategically very low dose but with the idea that you can hit your minimum necessary effort all the time. This is because I am not working 1:1 with anyone, truly understanding how much they climb and everything they do, etc. so you can start with a small dose. And if it works, keep doing it! And eventually you can ramp it up
What to expect?
What kind of progress do you usually see from this program?
1 like • Apr 30
Thank you so much for sharing @Daniel Stasik and @Tore Johan Olaussen !! I think Daniel summed it up best. The goal was not to provide a magic 9-week pill (if you find one, let me know haha) but to provide simple structure of what sustainable and effective training could look like as well as the educational "why" behind it all. Hopefully everyone will take away some similar things in confidence moving forward for many years to come on what to do and that "ah ha!" moment in making progress from something "so little".
Rapid pick ups
I was wondering about the rapid pick ups. Is it a pick up with half crimp or actively fingercurling the weight up?
0 likes • Apr 9
@Tore Johan Olaussen Yep! The beauty of strength and power is that it takes so little volume to create change in the body, and at that volume the fatigue accumulated and fatigue carry over should be minimal. So, worst cast you can always do those before climbing. Now, if your wanted a serious finger curl session to "maximize" the strength, maybe that looks like 5-6 reps of 3-5 reps? then maybe that would deserve its own day but that volume might also never be necessary unless you are trying to break a plateau, etc.
0 likes • Apr 9
@Jack Barraclough Great question. That is why I created the https://c4hpdatabase.com/ to try to collect enough info on that. But, the same would go if we were trying to make sense of it. You would want to see your RFD/Peak Force (the "Rate Force Ratio", DSI in other sports/limbs, but same same for climbing fingers) and then you compare that ration to your bodyweight. And I actually probably have some papers read recently on this and can try to pull them up and plug them into the RFD section of the classroom chapters. Once I get all the papers organized a bit I will see if one has any charts/data in there. They will usually have some sort of beginner vs. elite climber, etc. comparison
Talon Grip Option
Hello everyone! Sharing a free, downloadable 3D print file for a Talon grip if anyone has a friend or access to a printer. Thank you Erik! https://www.printables.com/model/1391706-talon-grip-lumbrical-trainer
0 likes • Apr 6
@Mathias Zamęcki Oh awesome! Thanks for the share
1 like • Apr 9
@Daniel Stasik great question! I would say that the palm closer to parallel would be the ideal way since it would then be "evenly loading all of the fingers", especially in the same way. The palm perpendicular isn't wrong either, just that the thumb may be working differently than the other fingers? The lift is probably going to reflect the yielding isometric style. And simple just trying to crush the talon (no lift) would be you overcoming iso version.
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Collin McGee
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@collin-mcgee-7575
Rock Climbing Coach

Active 3d ago
Joined Aug 22, 2025