Two loaves of Pain aux Noisettes et Figues

The term frasage translates literally as "milling" or "crushing," but to us in the boulangerie, it represents the vital first stage of mixing where flour and water first meet to become a cohesive mass. Pronounced frah-zahj, this process involves slowly incorporating the ingredients—and often your levain—until the flour is fully hydrated and no dry pockets remain, all while avoiding the premature development of a tight gluten network. Historically, this stage was performed by hand in large wooden troughs called pétrins, where the baker used a rhythmic, folding motion to ensure the dough was perfectly uniform before the more vigorous pétrissage, or intensive kneading, began. By mastering the frasage, you respect the integrity of the grain and set the foundation for a superior crumb structure, often transitioning next into a period of autolyse to allow the enzymes to work their magic before the final salt is added. Are you doing frasage today? Let me know what you're working on in the comments!

Next week we'll be featuring a traditional Italian bread that I've adapted the author of The Perfect Loaf, Maurizio Leo. I'll post the recipe this weekend. This Pane Siciliano from Maurizio Leo is a total standout if you're looking for something different from your typical sourdough. It’s a 100% durum wheat (semolina) bread that swaps the usual airy, holey interior for a tight, buttery crumb. Why It’s Special ▶️ The Vibe: It’s got a gorgeous golden-yellow color inside and out, and the whole loaf is covered in a thick layer of white sesame seeds. ▶️ The Flavor: Expect something nutty and slightly sweet. Because there's a little olive oil in the mix, it feels richer than a standard loaf, and those toasted seeds on top give it a flavor almost like peanut butter. ▶️ The Crunch: If you love a crispy crust, this is it. It’s specifically designed to be extra crunchy, especially once it’s toasted. A Few Quick Tips ▶️ Flour Matters: You’ll want to look for "extra fancy" durum or semolina rimacinata. Regular coarse semolina for pasta can work, but it might be a bit stickier to handle. ▶️ The Method: It uses a stiff sourdough starter (pasta madre) to keep the dough strong. We'll be using a lower hydration version than the one calls for. ▶️ Best Way to Eat It: Definitely try toasting it. The heat makes the sesame flavor pop and turns the crust into something incredibly brittle and delicious. Ingredients You'll Need For the Dough ⏺️ Durum Flour: Specifically "extra fancy" or semolina rimacinata (finely milled). ⏺️ Sourdough Starter: A ripe, active starter. ⏺️ Extra-Virgin Olive Oil: Adds richness and that signature buttery mouthfeel. ⏺️ Fine Sea Salt: To enhance the flavor. ⏺️ Water: Used for the levain, autolyse, and final mixing. For the Topping ⏺️ White Sesame Seeds: These are essential for the traditional nutty exterior and crunch. Optional Additions ⏺️ Honey or Barley Malt Syrup: Some traditional variations include these for a touch of extra sweetness, though they are optional in this specific version.

It is done.

I rarely bake with inclusions and thought this was the trickiest bread we made this past month. Really had no idea how it would turn out, but can confirm it tastes great with a big pat of butter.