This might sound backwards, but more plants does not automatically mean a better landscape. One of the biggest mistakes I see is overplanting. People think dense = finished, so they cram everything in. What actually happens is plants compete, get stressed, and the space becomes harder to maintain. Here’s what I aim for instead: • Around 70–80% plant coverage at maturity • Plants spaced correctly so they can grow into each other naturally • Groundcovers doing the heavy lifting instead of tons of individual plants When plants are spaced right, you get: • Healthier growth • Better water efficiency • Less weeding over time • A cleaner, more intentional look The landscape fills in naturally instead of fighting itself. This is also why I spend so much time choosing the right plants, not just pretty ones. Mature size, growth habit, and how they interact with nearby plants matters more than how full it looks on install day. If you’ve ever wondered why some xeriscapes look lush and calm while others feel chaotic, spacing is usually the reason. Next post I’ll break down how I choose plants that actually work together, not just look good in a pot.

When people think about designing a yard, they usually picture plants, colors, textures, and aesthetic choices. But very few understand the importance of plant coverage. Coverage decides whether your yard feels finished and healthy or bare and full of weeds. The idea is simple. When plants cover the soil, you save water, weeds stay down, and your landscape looks intentional instead of scattered. Here are three guidelines that make plant coverage easy to understand. 1. Think in mature size, not the size you buy If a plant grows to three feet wide, it will cover about seven square feet of space. When you add the numbers together, you can instantly see how much of your yard will be covered once everything reaches maturity. 2. Use groundcovers to fill space and save money Plants like ice plant, yarrow, thyme, and creeping germander are powerful tools. They fill empty areas, soften the design, and reduce the number of larger plants you need. This keeps your landscape full and still protects your budget. 3. Aim for 50-80% percent coverage Less than this allows weeds to invade because the soil stays exposed. More than this makes the design feel crowded. The fifty to eighty percent range also lines up with Utah rebate requirements. This is why intentional spacing matters more than most people realize. Once you understand coverage, everything becomes clearer. Plant selection becomes easier. Irrigation is simpler. Your yard begins to look complete instead of random. Next week we will talk about sun exposure and how light determines the placement of every plant in your design. What is one part of your yard that feels too empty or too crowded right now?

Late-November Yard Prep: Three Things Smart Homeowners Do Right Now 🍂❄️ Most people think landscaping shuts down once the water is turned off. Late November is actually one of the best times to set your yard up for success next spring. Here are three quick things you can do this week that make a huge difference. ⸻ 1. Refresh Your Mulch Before Winter Hits Mulch protects plant roots from the freeze and thaw cycles we get this time of year. Even a light top-off, about a third to a half inch, helps your soil (with a goal to maintain 3-4”) • hold moisture • reduce winter weeds • shield newer plants from sudden cold snaps ⸻ 2. Cut Back Only the Right Plants Avoid the temptation to cut everything down. Some plants should stay standing through winter. Leave your ornamental grasses, coneflowers, seedheads, and anything with structure. They look great in the snow and give the crown of the plant extra protection. Cut back only the plants that are completely finished for the season or have turned soft. ⸻ 3. Start Planning Your Xeriscape Project for Spring Winter is the ideal time to begin shaping your yard plans. You can look at ideas at your own pace and have everything ready when warmer weather returns. • explore different styles • map out a clear direction • move forward quickly once spring arrives If you want help creating a design, I can put together a full custom plan for your yard. If you like doing things yourself, stay tuned. I will be sharing step-by-step design tips here in the community so you know exactly where to begin.

Post title:Why Mulch Is Your Yard’s Secret Superpower 🪵🌿 Post body:If you’ve heard me say “LOTS OF MULCH” a few times… this is why 😄 Most homeowners think of mulch as just “brown stuff to make it look nice,” but in a water-wise yard it does a lot more than that: 1. Saves waterMulch acts like a blanket over your soil, helping lock in moisture so you don’t have to water as often. 2. Chokes out weedsA good 3–4" layer of mulch makes it really hard for weed seeds to get the light they need to germinate. Fewer weeds = less Saturday misery. 3. Protects your plantsIt keeps soil temperatures more stable, which means less stress on roots in our hot summers and cold winters. 4. Feeds the soil (and why I avoid dyed mulch)Natural, undyed wood mulch slowly breaks down and actually improves your soil over time.Dyed mulch, on the other hand, is often made from ground-up pallets or construction scrap and then tinted. It looks “sharp” at first but: - The color fades fast - It doesn’t add much (or any) real value to the soil - You’re paying mostly for the color, not the health of your yard That’s why I stick with dark brown, undyed mulches. One of my favorite local sources is Oquirrh Mountain Compost – their blends are a rich dark brown with no dyes added.👉 You can check them out here: https://www.omcompost.com Over the next few weeks I’ll be sharing more specific tips on: - When to use wood mulch vs rock - How not to smother your plants - My favorite “problem solving” mulch combos for Utah yards 👉 Question for you: What’s your current situation? - A) Mostly rock - B) Mostly bark/wood mulch - C) Just… soil and weeds 😅 Drop your answer in the comments and, if you want, share a quick photo of your yard and I’ll give you one mulch tip specific to your situation.