(Tomasi Masima – Builder Tips) 🎯 Module Outcome Members will learn how to remove a damaged tile, prepare the surface, install a new tile, and grout it cleanly — the same method a builder or tiler uses on-site. 📌 Lesson 1: Tools & Materials You’ll Need Simple gear most DIYers already have: - Replacement tile - Tile adhesive - Grout (matching colour) - Grout float - Hammer - Chisel or cold chisel - Utility knife - Sponge + bucket - Tile spacers - Safety glasses + gloves Builder Tip: Always keep spare tiles from the original install — matching later can be hard. 📌 Lesson 2: Remove the Grout Around the Broken Tile This protects the surrounding tiles. Steps: - Use a utility knife or grout removal tool - Cut along all grout lines around the tile - Remove as much grout as possible Builder Tip: Take your time — rushing here cracks the tiles next to it. 📌 Lesson 3: Break and Remove the Damaged Tile Steps: - Place a chisel in the centre of the tile - Tap lightly with a hammer to crack it - Remove pieces carefully - Work from the centre outward Builder Tip: Never start at the edges — that’s how you chip the good tiles. 📌 Lesson 4: Clean the Surface (Very Important) A clean base = a strong bond. Steps: - Scrape off old adhesive - Vacuum dust and debris - Make sure the surface is flat and dry Builder Tip: If old adhesive is left behind, the new tile will sit too high. 📌 Lesson 5: Apply Tile Adhesive Steps: - Spread adhesive evenly with a notched trowel - Cover the entire area - Keep the adhesive ridges consistent Builder Tip: Don’t use too much — the tile will float and sit uneven. 📌 Lesson 6: Install the New Tile Steps: - Place the tile into position - Press firmly into the adhesive - Use spacers to match the existing gaps - Check the tile is level with surrounding tiles Builder Tip: If the tile sits too low, add a little more adhesive underneath. 📌 Lesson 7: Let the Adhesive Set Wait at least 12–24 hours before grouting.

(Tomasi Masima – Builder Tips) 🎯 Module Outcome Members will learn how to remove an old kitchen tap, install a new mixer, and check for leaks — safely and correctly, using the same method a builder uses on-site. ⚠️ Safety First Before starting: - Turn off the water supply - Have a bucket and towel ready - If pipes look corroded or damaged, call a plumber Builder Tip: Never work on a tap with the water still on — even a slow drip becomes a flood. 📌 Lesson 1: Tools You’ll Need Simple tools only: - Adjustable wrench - Phillips screwdriver - Bucket + towel - New kitchen tap (mixer) - Plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) - Torch (optional) Builder Tip: Most modern taps come with flexible hoses — makes the job much easier. 📌 Lesson 2: Turn Off the Water Supply Steps: - Look under the sink for the isolation valves - Turn both hot and cold valves clockwise to close - Turn the tap on to confirm water is off Builder Tip: If there are no isolation valves, turn off the water at the main. 📌 Lesson 3: Disconnect the Old Tap Steps: - Place a bucket under the pipes - Unscrew the hot and cold hoses - Remove the mounting nut or bracket holding the tap - Lift the old tap out from the top Builder Tip: If the mounting nut is rusty, spray with lubricant and wait a few minutes. 📌 Lesson 4: Prepare the New Tap Steps: - Attach the flexible hoses to the new tap - Hand‑tighten first, then snug with a wrench - Feed hoses through the sink hole Builder Tip: Don’t overtighten hoses — the rubber seals do the sealing. 📌 Lesson 5: Install the New Tap Steps: - Position the tap straight - Install the mounting bracket or nut underneath - Tighten firmly so the tap doesn’t twist - Make sure the tap base sits flush on the sink Builder Tip: Have someone hold the tap straight from above while you tighten below. 📌 Lesson 6: Connect the Water Hoses Steps: - Connect hot hose to hot valve - Connect cold hose to cold valve - Tighten with a wrench — firm but not excessive - Use plumber’s tape if the threads need sealing

(Tomasi Masima – Builder Tips) 🎯 Module Outcome Members will learn how to safely replace a light switch or power outlet, including turning off power, removing the old fitting, wiring the new one, and testing it properly — while understanding when to call a licensed electrician. ⚠️ IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING Electricity can be dangerous. If you are unsure, uncomfortable, or the wiring looks damaged, stop and call a licensed electrician. Never work on live wires. 📌 Lesson 1: Tools You’ll Need Simple tools only: - Flathead screwdriver - Phillips screwdriver - Voltage tester - New switch or outlet - Needle‑nose pliers (optional) Builder Tip: Always buy quality fittings — cheap ones crack easily and loosen over time. 📌 Lesson 2: Turn Off the Power (Non‑Negotiable) Steps: - Go to your switchboard - Turn off the breaker for the circuit - Try the switch/outlet to confirm it’s off - Use a voltage tester to double‑check Builder Tip: Never trust the switch — only trust the breaker and your tester. 📌 Lesson 3: Remove the Old Switch or Outlet Steps: - Unscrew the faceplate - Unscrew the switch/outlet from the wall box - Gently pull it forward - Take note of how the wires are connected - Take a photo for reference Builder Tip: A quick photo saves you from guessing later. 📌 Lesson 4: Disconnect the Wires Typical wires you’ll see: - Active (Live) - Neutral - Earth (Ground) Steps: - Loosen terminal screws - Remove wires one by one - Keep wires separated so they don’t touch Builder Tip: If wires look burnt or brittle, stop — that’s a job for an electrician. 📌 Lesson 5: Connect the New Switch or Outlet Follow the wiring diagram on the new fitting. For a light switch: - Active wire goes to COM - Switched wire goes to L1 (or similar marking) For a power outlet: - Active → A / L - Neutral → N - Earth → E Steps: - Insert wires into correct terminals - Tighten screws firmly - Tug each wire gently to ensure it’s secure

(Tomasi Masima – Builder Tips) 🎯 Module Outcome Members will learn how to remove an old door handle, install a new one, and ensure the latch lines up properly so the door opens and closes smoothly — the same method a builder uses on-site. 📌 Lesson 1: Tools You’ll Need Simple tools — nothing fancy. - Phillips screwdriver - Flathead screwdriver - Tape measure - New door handle set - Chisel (optional) - Drill (optional) Builder Tip: Most door handles are universal — but always check the back set (60mm is standard). 📌 Lesson 2: Remove the Old Handle Steps: - Unscrew the two screws on the inside handle - Pull both handles off the door - Remove the spindle (the square bar through the latch) - Unscrew the latch plate on the edge of the door - Slide the latch out Builder Tip: Keep the screws together — you’ll need them for reference. 📌 Lesson 3: Check the Back set and Hole Size Before installing the new handle: - Measure the back set (distance from door edge to handle hole) - Check the diameter of the existing hole - Make sure the new handle fits without extra cutting Builder Tip: Most modern handles fit a 54mm hole and 60mm back set. 📌 Lesson 4: Install the New Latch Steps: - Slide the new latch into the door edge - Make sure the curved side faces the door closing direction - Screw the latch plate into place - Check it sits flush — chisel lightly if needed Builder Tip: If the latch plate sticks out, the door won’t close cleanly. 📌 Lesson 5: Fit the New Handles Steps: - Insert the spindle through the latch - Line up the handles on both sides - Make sure the handle sits straight - Screw the inside plate or handle into place - Tighten screws evenly so the handle doesn’t twist Builder Tip: Don’t overtighten — it can pinch the mechanism. 📌 Lesson 6: Test the Handle Check: - Does the handle turn smoothly - Does the latch retract fully - Does the latch spring back out - Does the door close without rubbing Builder Tip: If the handle feels stiff, loosen the screws slightly.

A strong, clean, no‑nonsense build for garages, sheds, or inside the house. This design uses basic framing timber and plywood or boards. It’s sturdy, cheap, and easy to customise. 🧰 Materials - 4 legs (90×45 or 70×45 framing timber) - Shelf rails (same timber) - Shelf boards (plywood, MDF, or planks) - Exterior or construction screws - Wood glue (optional) 🔧 Tools - Drill/driver - Saw (hand saw or circular saw) - Tape measure - Square - Pencil - Level 🔨 Step‑by‑Step Build 1. Cut Your Timber Decide the size of your shelf. A common size is: - Height: 1.8m - Width: 1.2m - Depth: 450mm Cut: - 4 legs - 6 rails for the shelves (2 per shelf) - Shelf boards to fit the frame 2. Build the Side Frames Lay two legs on the ground. Screw a rail across them at the height you want the bottom shelf. Add another rail for the top shelf. Repeat for the other side. You now have two ladder‑shaped frames. 3. Join the Frames Together Stand the two side frames upright. Screw the front and back rails between them at the same heights. This creates a strong rectangular frame. Tip: Check for square by measuring diagonals — they should match. 4. Add the Shelves Lay your plywood or boards on top of the rails. Screw them down so they don’t move. You can add: - One shelf - Two shelves - Or more, depending on your needs 5. Strengthen the Frame (Optional but Recommended) Add diagonal bracing at the back if the shelf will hold heavy items. This stops wobble and keeps everything rigid. 6. Level and Position Place the shelf where you want it. Use packers if the floor is uneven. ✔️ Quick Build Checklist - Legs cut to equal length - Rails level and square - Frame rigid with no wobble - Shelves screwed down - Shelf sits level on the floor