I sell tomato starts locally, this being my third season. Last year the pots had no nutrition and I only foliar applied MasterMix. This year I included 1/3 fungal dominant compost in the potting mix while still using foliar applications. The difference is noticeable to say the least.

I am thinking of purchasing a PH meter to use for my garden. Any recommendations for one that is not too pricey, but does actually work as it should/

Can I add material to a “hot compost” after it’s already started?? Some ideological composters will say absolutely not, or that if you must then it “resets” your flip count (we generally want 3 flips to get everything a chance in the middle to get “cleaned”). The idea being that fresh material may not get the thermophilic treatment that we’re aiming for with the remaining flips. But the real answer is once again “it depends”. My pile is up to heat, but just barely in some places, and I’m anticipating that the temperature will drop slightly over subsequent flips. What to do? I’m going to add fresh plant material that doesn’t have any seeds. I can do this because I understand what the heat is for. Heat does 2 things - kill weed seeds and clear out potential pathogens. So if I’m not adding seeds or potential pathogens, we haven’t actually violated the rule. So what I would avoid is adding more animal manures, funky compost buckets, feathers, or anything you turn your nose up at. So because my new material is fresh, clean plant material, I won’t be resetting my flip count, and this is critical to minimizing the necessary oxidation and loss of carbon creating a pile - but more on that later. #growmicrobes #soilhealth #microbes #compost #soil

I am truly delighted to have the opportunity to join your community. For over 20 years, I have been working in soilless cultivation—though actually using living soil enriched with earthworms and mycorrhizae—focusing mainly on tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce. See you very soon.

Thanks for approving my request to join im here to learn from you all