If you have questions ask .I still.checkmthebpage daily but I have been too busy to post and I lost a lot of my videos in a hardrive crash so I'll be re recording topics so if you have topics of interest post them it helps giv eme a priority to rerecord

Mine are checked several times throughout the day, with constant shade, strong airflow from fans, fresh water, and frozen bottles or chilled tiles available when temperatures climb. I also watch closely for early warning signs such as drooling, weakness, rapid breathing, poor coordination, hot ears, or skin that stays tented when gently lifted. Heat stress can become an emergency very quickly, so prevention matters more than waiting until a rabbit is already in trouble. Keep cages out of direct sun, maintain good ventilation, refresh water often, and move any struggling rabbit to a cooler area immediately. What methods are working best in your rabbitry this summer?

Black Oil Sunflower Seeds Black oil sunflower seeds, commonly abbreviated BOSS, are an optional conditioning and coat-finishing supplement. They are highly palatable and contain substantial fat, vitamin E, protein, and linoleic acid. BOSS is not a complete rabbit feed and should not be offered free-choice. Pros Coat conditioning: The high oil content can improve coat sheen and may help finish a coat during molt or before showing. Concentrated energy: BOSS can provide additional calories for rabbits that need help maintaining condition, including some breeding, working, or underweight animals. Vitamin E and fatty acids: Sunflower seeds naturally contain vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids that contribute to normal skin and coat maintenance. Easy to use: BOSS can be measured and top-dressed onto a complete pelleted ration. Cons Extremely high in fat and calories: Free-feeding allows uncontrolled intake and can add excessive energy to the diet. This may contribute to obesity, excessive internal or carcass fat, and poor overall condition. Can displace the balanced pellet: Rabbits may preferentially eat sunflower seeds instead of their complete feed. This reduces their intake of balanced protein, amino acids, fiber, calcium, vitamins, and trace minerals. Poor mineral balance: Sunflower seeds are low in calcium relative to phosphorus. Heavy intake can distort the calcium-to-phosphorus balance of the total ration. Selective feeding: Offering large amounts encourages rabbits to pick out the most palatable, energy-dense ingredient instead of consuming the complete ration evenly. Possible digestive disruption: A sudden increase in dietary fat or excessive seed intake may reduce normal pellet consumption and may contribute to soft stools or changes in cecal fermentation. Rancidity and storage: The oil in sunflower seeds can become rancid when stored in heat, humidity, or open containers. Seeds should be kept cool, dry, and protected from moisture, mold, and pests. Feeding Guideline

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By S Hughes Myths busted by actual current up to date science: "80% of rabbit does get cancer". This was based on the findings of the Greene study performed in 1947 and published in the 1950s. It's 79yrs old. Studies done within the last 5 to 10yrs have extremely reduced that down to 14% or lower... that's less than humans. "Wire cages hurt rabbits". This was from studies performed in the 1970s, 56yrs old. The study used cages no bigger than the travel carriers breeders currently use for transport to different locations/brief trips... no longer what we use for permanent housing and haven't in decades. Current science from the past five yrs has given rabbits the choice of wire cages vs different housing, the rabbits themselves choose the cages, even if they're born in a group/colony and have never seen one. When European countries began requiring group housing and no wire, rabbits started getting sick and injured. Upon further scientific studies, correct wire caging is the superior housing format. It is cleaner, rabbits have their own space, their feet can sit in a natural position and stay dry. Sore hocks are a disqualification on the show table, yet multiple thousands of breeder rabbits are shown every year, that are housed overwhelmingly on wire. Because correct wire flooring doesn't cause sore hocks... it actually heals them. There is a difference in the type and spacing of wire that is appropriate. Chicken wire and hardware cloth are not correct. 14 or 16 gauge GAW 1/2in x 1in spacing is correct for flooring. This acts like bed springs to give some, while still supporting. Every time the rabbit moves, the pressure on the foot changes...unlike household flooring which pushes the toes up and puts constant pressure on the hock. Unless you're changing the litter box every time the rabbit goes, then they'll be touching the poop and pee with their feet. In wire cages, that all falls completely away from the rabbit and they never contact it. Rabbits do not need friends, in fact they dislike it. "Bonding" should be re-named "Forced co-habitation". All our domesticated rabbits descend from the wild European rabbit. The warrens of wild European rabbits are not one large hole in the ground where everyone lives in peace. The rabbit Warren is individual apartments underground where wild rabbits live singly for 20hrs a day. They maintain space from each other. They're violently territorial. They want to see other rabbits, but not interact. In every group housing study from 10yrs ago to current year, the stress hormones in group housed rabbits skyrocket. The housing method with the least stress is a stacked wire caging system where rabbits can see each other, but do not have to defend territories. (Please read "The Social Nature of the European Rabbit").