What is sebum, and why does it matter? The skin is made up of sebaceous glands that secrete sebum. In some people this stays within a normal range, in others it doesn't. Excess sebum production, like what's seen in seborrheic dermatitis, can create a favorable environment for fungal growth. Sebum is a natural, oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands in our skin. Chemically, it's a complex mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, waxes, squalene, and cellular debris. Even though it's often treated as the enemy of good skin, sebum is actually the skin's first line of defense — it protects against dehydration, external factors, and microorganisms. The amount produced varies from person to person and depends on genetic predisposition (nothing we can do about that), hormones, diet, and external factors. The skin is made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis (where the sebaceous glands are located), and the hypodermis. Sebum is even healthy for the skin — it helps with hydration, defends the skin, and rebuilds the skin barrier, among other things. Overproduction, though, can lead to an unfavorable environment, clogged pores, and breakouts. It's typically secreted most heavily in the T-zone — nose, forehead, and cheeks. Topical treatments for oily skin Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from vitamin A, including natural forms like retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, and retinyl esters, as well as synthetic forms like adapalene and tazarotene. Mechanism of action: Retinoids work by binding to nuclear receptors in skin cells. Human skin contains three types of RAR (retinoic acid receptor) — RAR-α, RAR-β, and RAR-γ. To become functional, an RAR receptor has to pair with an RXR receptor (retinoid X receptor), forming what's called a heterodimer. In the epidermis, RAR-γ makes up about 90% of all RAR receptors, and RXR-α makes up about 90% of all RXR receptors. Because of this, human skin is mostly regulated by the RAR-γ/RXR-α heterodimer combination.