Hey all we’ve just released a completely FREE guide on building motivation in the COURES SECTION. I believe this is one of the best FREE resources available. Give it a watch and if you got any questions, fire over a message and a member of the team will get to you ! Cheers Ollie

The NO command is about clarity, interruption, and choice.We’re teaching the dog how to turn off from something they want and get paid for making the right decision. Let’s break it down step by step 👇 Step 1: Set the Dog Up for Success - Leash on the dog (non-negotiable at first) - Place something the dog wants on the floor - You want temptation, not chaos Step 2: Controlled Approach (We’re creating a teachable moment) - Calmly approach the item with the dog - No cues yet - Let the dog think and show intent Step 3: The Decision Point (Timing is everything) - As the dog commits to the item - Say “NO” (calm, firm, neutral) - Immediately apply a leash pop - The goal is to break fixation, not intimidate Step 5: Mark & Pay the Right Choice (This is where learning locks in) - The instant the dog disengages : ➡️ Mark with your positive marker ➡️ Reward generously You’re celebrating the decision to turn off. Step 6: Repetition = Understanding ( Consistency builds confidence) - Repeat this in short, clear sessions - Same rules, same timing - Dog learns:“NO means disengage… and that pays.” Step 7: Generalise the Cue (Proof it before you free it) - Do this for a week or so - Keep the leash on during this phase Step 8: Wean the Structure ( Freedom is earned) - Test the cue in real-life moments - Step back in with structure if clarity slips Final Thought A good NO command is: ✔️ Clear ✔️ Fair ✔️ Consistent ✔️ Followed by reward Any questions let me know ! OLLIE

If your dog sometimes listens…kind of understands…and occasionally does the right thing… You probably don’t have a clear marker system. What Is a Marker System? A marker system tells the dog exactly what their behavior means in the moment. At its simplest: - YES = “That’s correct. That behavior works.” - NO = “That doesn’t work. Try something else.” Dogs don’t speak English — they learn through clarity and consequence. Markers provide clarity. Why “YES” Matters A potent YES marker: - Pinpoints the exact behavior you want - Speeds up learning dramatically - Builds confidence - Reduces confusion and hesitation If you don’t clearly mark success, your dog is guessing. Guessing leads to: - Slow progress - Frustration - Inconsistent obedience Why “NO” Matters (And Why Avoiding It Hurts Dogs) A clear NO marker: - Ends unwanted behavior immediately - Prevents repetition of bad choices - Gives the dog information instead of emotion - Creates boundaries without anger Dogs want feedback. When there’s no “no,” dogs learn through trial and error — usually repeating the wrong thing until it becomes a habit. No marker ≠ kindness No marker = confusion Potency Is the Key A weak marker system sounds like: - “uh uh” - repeating commands - begging - body language instead of communication A potent marker system is: - Clear - Consistent - Emotionally neutral - Always followed by the correct outcome YES always means success NO always means change course. No exceptions.

One of the most underrated skills a dog can learn is how to do nothing. Not sit. Not down. Not place. Nothing. This is where tethering comes in. What Is Tethering? Tethering means attaching your dog to a fixed object (like a sturdy table leg, eye hook, or heavy piece of furniture) using a leash or tether — while you go about normal life. Just existence with boundaries. Why “Do Nothing” Matters Most problem behaviours don’t come from bad dogs — they come from dogs that never learned how to be bored. Tethering helps: - Reduce over-excitement - Build frustration tolerance - Create emotional neutrality - Stop demand behaviors (whining, pawing, barking for attention) - Teach the dog that calm is the default A dog that can do nothing is a dog that can: - Settle in public - Relax in the house - Handle real life without constant stimulation What Tethering Looks Like (In Practice) 1. Clip the leash to your dog 2. Attach it to a solid, safe anchor point 3. Give enough slack to stand, sit, or lie down — not roam 4. Ignore the dog completely At first, you’ll likely see: - Pacing - Whining - Barking - Trying to engage you This is normal. Don’t soothe.Don’t correct.Don’t talk. When the dog gives up and relaxes — that’s the lesson. Final Thought Obedience teaches a dog what to do.Tethering teaches a dog when nothing is required. And that skill changes everything. If your dog struggles to settle, start here. Calm isn’t commanded — it’s learned. Ollie

The down stay isn’t just about your dog lying still, Its about teaching neutrality and impulse control in a way very few exercises can. When a dog holds a down stay, they’re practicing: - Choosing calm over movement - Observing the world without reacting - Regulating their own emotions without constant direction That’s huge. Neutrality doesn’t mean your dog is shut down or disengaged. It means they can exist around stimulation without feeling the need to do something about it. Dogs that struggle with reactivity, over-arousal, or “busy brains” often lack this skill. A properly trained down stay: - Builds emotional endurance - Teaches patience in real time - Creates a default calm state - Transfers into real-world situations (cafes, classes, waiting rooms, sidelines, etc.) The magic isn’t in forcing stillness. It’s in teaching the dog how to self-settle while staying mentally connected. Over time, that calm becomes a habit—not a command. 🔥 Want to take this further? I will be opening access soon to a brand new course focused entirely on building focus, neutrality, and calmness—for dogs that struggle to switch off, stay engaged, or regulate themselves around distractions. STAY TUNED ! And as always let me know if you got any questions !