CORTEGGIO is the recent release from the British niche house Naughton & Wilson (Mr Smelly77 is Dan Naughton). N&W is a traditional British gentleman’s niche perfume house in the vein of Floris and Geo F Trumper, though (in my view), a cut above both. CORTEGGIO is a citrus-forward fragrance but like none I’ve ever encountered in decades of wearing and smelling men’s citrus offerings. This is a distinct, refined, elegant, elevated fragrance playing on the same field as Dior Eau Sauvage and Chanel Pour Monsieur. It opens with grapefruit, lemon and bergamot, and there’s nothing surprising about that opening. But what makes CORTEGGIO utterly unique is … wait for it … powder. Yes, powder. There is no powder in the note listing but some of the mid- and base notes (perhaps the musk) create a distinct gentlemanly powder that rides right along with the citrus. I don’t know of a single citrus fragrance I’ve ever smelled that is a powdery citrus. Today the hype is around “juicy,” fizzy,” or “photorealistic” citrus notes. This is none of that. The image the fragrance brought immediately to my mind, and I mean within about 10 seconds after application, was the gentleman 60 years ago wearing a black suit and white shirt and matching tie with a red carnation in his lapel boutonniere hole. He is wearing an early citrus fragrance, perhaps an aftershave, complemented by talcum powder. Being a gentleman, his fragrance is not an independent component but part of the entire ensemble, which includes bearing, manners, attire, social status, and even character. This is the gentleman of the first half of the 20th century. This is the gentleman CORTEGGIO summons. CORTEGGIO is not a “beast mode”fragrance for the simple reason that this house gestures toward the idea of the classical gentlemen, and in those days, a “beast mode” fragrance would identify the man as a beast, not a gentleman. CORTEGGIO will not appeal to teenage TiketyTokers or diabetically gourmond twentysomethings, and these are not its target market. That market is the serious gentleman, whose fragrance says: “I take myself seriously, and I expect you to take me seriously.”