Rabbit manure is classified as a cold manure. That means it can be applied directly to garden beds without composting first. It’s relatively low in ammonia, so it won’t burn plant roots like fresh poultry or cattle manure can. Typical nutrient range (varies by diet, but consistent overall): • Nitrogen (N): ~2–2.5% • Phosphorus (P): ~1–1.5% • Potassium (K): ~0.5–1% Balanced. Slow-release. Plant-available over time. Rabbit manure is processed plant material. Pelleted. Uniform. Easy to handle. As it breaks down, it feeds soil microbes — bacteria and fungi that drive nutrient cycling in living soil. It also: • Adds organic matter • Improves soil structure • Breaks down quickly • Doesn’t require aging like “hot” manure • Is relatively dry and low odor Now let’s zoom out. Rabbits eat pellets. They make manure. The garden needs manure. You eat the vegetables. The extra manure goes back into the feed bags to sell to buy feed , and the cycle keeps turning. That’s not trendy sustainability marketing. That’s a closed-loop system. We’re not selling anything here (althoughwe do sell on the farm ;) . Just acknowledging that sometimes the most valuable thing on a farm is the thing everyone pretends not to notice. Still talking sh*t. Just scientifically.

For the specialty, But here is our leg yay !! And some Candids!

Some pics

Would anyone be interested if I did a live here ?

Alright, I need your brains. What nutrition advice have you been told that now makes you go… wait… is that actually true? What’s confusing? What doesn’t add up? What “rule” have you always followed but never really understood? Drop it all !! • “Hay should be 80%.” • “Golden poops = perfect health.” • “Pellets are junk.” If you’ve side-eyed it even once, I want to hear it! This is your chance to throw your myths, questions, and half-explained advice into the ring. I’ll break them down in upcoming modules and shorts. No judgment. No dogma. Just data and discussion. Let’s clean house. 🧹🐇