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Lab Notes Society

41 members • Free

7 contributions to Lab Notes Society
Formulation Feedback Friday
Here's how it works: you drop a formula, a product idea, an ingredient question, or something you've been quietly puzzling over, and I give you proper, specific feedback. Not "looks great!" but actually useful input you can do something with. It can be the shampoo from the Abbey Yung series, something completely unrelated, or a question you've been sitting on for a while and weren't sure was worth asking. There are no silly questions here, genuinely. Post it below, and I'll work through them over the course of the day.
1 like • 16d
So for damaged hair, a 3-4% of keratin blend, is it considered too much for a conditioner or a mask? (it feels perfect for me but asking in general)
1 like • 11d
Oh no worries @Timea Racz . Actually it's 2 different ceramides not keratin 🙄, my bad, 2% each. INCI: Water, Glycerine, Glycosphingolipids, Phospholipids, Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl acrylate, crosspolymer, Cholesterol, Sodium Hydroxide at 1-3% for damaged hair and the other is INCI: Aqua, PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate, Ceramide NP (Phytosphingosine backbone acylated with oleic acid) , Phenoxyethanol at 1-5% (0,5% ceramide NP dilution)
Foam ≠ clean. Do you actually believe it?
Most formulators know this in theory. Foam doesn't equal clean(s)ing power. A surfactant can cleanse perfectly well without producing a dramatic lather, and some of the harshest surfactants make the most impressive foam. But here's the honest question: do you actually believe it when you're the one using the product? I ask because I notice it in myself sometimes. I'll test a gentle cleanser bar that I know is working at a good surfactant percentage, pH is right, micelle formation is fine, and everything checks out. And yet if the lather isn't satisfying, there's a small part of my brain that questions whether it really cleanses. It's consumer psychology working on the formulator. We're not immune to it. Quick poll — when you use a low-lather cleanser, do you: Tell me in the comments, too. I'm genuinely curious whether this changes with experience level.
Poll
7 members have voted
2 likes • 16d
Even if you DO know it's working perfectly, the foam thingy is carved into our brains as users.
Currently on my bench
At work, I'm working on a non-tinted version of our 50+ SPF so we can sell it as a body SPF. I think the results are good; there is an ever-so-slight white hue when applied (downside of some mineral SPF ingredients). I am also working on powder masks for clinics. For this group, I am finalising the March Masterclass that was delayed due to the platform migration. 👩🏻‍🔬 What are you currently working on?
Currently on my bench
1 like • Apr 24
@Mishael Onwuegbuna I think we all have the same diagnosis lol. It took me 5 years of formulation (and an AI I instructed to stop me if I don't actually need something) to finally stop buying every shiny thing I saw and never used lol. And still feel the need to go on shopping spree 😋. And I have a budget more tight than my last year clothes 😅. Aside that it depends on your ethos in formulation in order to select the ingredients you need. For instance mine is safety first, especially for cats, not natural, no trends, no "clean". Safe. When you deside that, it will be a lot easier to decide.
1 like • Apr 24
I am currently working on keratin hair treatment for my hero hair that have gone (and still going) through hellfire and live to tell the story lol. First attempt was a glue like, sticky, what-on-earth did I make and put on my hair. Luckily, I always make 30-50gr batches till I get where I want, so not a big loss. But will get there eventually!
What does your stability testing actually look like right now?
Quick one this week: I want to know where people actually are with stability testing. Which of these best describes your current process? Pick what applies. Multiple answers are fine if you do more than one. And if your process is something different entirely, tell me in the comments. I'm not looking for ideal answers here, just an honest picture of where people actually are, so I can see how I can help.
Poll
1 member has voted
1 like • Apr 24
All of the above-ish plus what I already mentioned in another comment 😊
0 likes • Apr 24
Well it's a crude protocol, since it's not exact measurements and I let the weather take its time and it's whimps. More like a strict rule testing with documentation. Which will be elevated with the info you gave me and more details to follow.
Lab Talk: Are you testing or just watching?
There's a question I've been thinking about this week, and I wanted to ask your thoughts. A formulator asked me recently whether putting her formula on a shelf and checking it regularly counted as a stability test. The short answer is: not quite. Watching a formula over time gives you useful information about how it looks and behaves at room temperature. But it's a single type of data under a single set of conditions. It tells you nothing about pH drift, how the formula handles temperature stress, or whether the preservation system is holding up. But here's the thing: most of us do start here. Leaving something on the shelf and watching it is a reasonable starting point, and I don't want to make it sound like everything you've been doing is wrong. My question for this week: when you make a new formula, what does your stability process actually look like? Are you running a deliberate testing protocol, or are you mostly observing and kind of hoping things hold? And if it's the latter, is that a choice you've made intentionally, or just something that hasn't come up yet or perhaps you don't know what to do? I'm genuinely curious where people are with this. Stability testing is an area where many formulators, including experienced ones, have less coverage than they'd like. No judgment here, just an honest conversation. 🌼
Lab Talk: Are you testing or just watching?
1 like • Apr 20
I try to do a full stress test, if you can call it that, in real world conditions. Always in a clear jar, mostly left open, dive my "dirty" fingers in it from time to time, as most people tend to do (although I never sell in a jar, only tubes and pumps), shipping from Athens to Crete (to my dad) in Greece summer heat that can go up to 45 degrees in shadow, let alone in steel containers, watching it's behavior both summer and winter leaving it in different places and temperatures around the house, bathroom included. And from time to time I check ph drift,seperation, color, smell. What do you think?
1 like • Apr 22
Thank you so much for the useful information and advise. Yes I do mostly emulsions. And even if I don't have microbial testing, if a formula under those conditions is still good after a year (no mushrooms raised lol), then a 6 month period I usually give, makes me confident. And since I love making but forget using them... You can guess how many are forgotten here and there lol. My nurse brain kicks in whenever I want to test something so I do everything I shouldn't do😅. I keep a jar of conditioner full with strands of my hair, water dripped from freshly dyed hair and the occasional cat hair, in the bathroom. Seperate from the one I use. So if it survives that in a year? You get my point 😊 I actually do document that in a spreadsheet and a local stored app everything I can, from ph changes, Preservative used, time passed, any change happening, danger VS risk assessment for some ingredients for pets, etc. that an AI helped me make tailored to my needs as I am very invested in cat safety for sometime now. Human cosmetics but safe for my little rascals 🥰🥰
1-7 of 7
Damiani Georgiadi
2
9points to level up
@damiani-georgiadi-4697
Nurse and hobby formulator

Active 7d ago
Joined Apr 12, 2026