Well, the first thing to determine is if you bikes suspension leverage and curve is adequate enough to be used with a coil shock. If you drop a coil shock onto a frame that is not designed to work with a coil you could end up with a worse feeling setup. There is a unique product solution to help with that, the Cane Creek Tigon, which uses a small air charge to add progression to the coil shock. But even that in some setups will still not provide the right amount of progression to utilize a coil shock on the frame. The dirty... Air shocks are more tune-able to rider weight and have a large range of uses across all manufacture frames. So you can usually upgrade to a larger volume air shock and still get the desired feel out of the suspension. Air shocks do however, require more maintenance due to the extra pressure put onto the seals. Coil shocks provide an amazing supple and reactive feel. On the right bike they tend to provide better small bump sensitivity, a more supportive mid stroke and usually allows you to get the most travel out of the shock. They are however, heavier, you may need to accept a body weight tuning sacrifice due to limited and offer large gaps in available spring rates (Air systems you can tune to within a PSI). Occasionally they are also not recommended on some suspension setups, namely those that use a connecting arm (yoke) can sometimes put loads onto the coil shock causing pre-mature failure. So, the real questions going forward are... Will you suspension curve work with a coil. and what do you hope to achieve by going to a coil spring setup?

Couple things to consider… first Make sure you set your psi in the cold and with the air in the tires at the same temp as outside , that way you have an accurate pressure when you start the ride. If you have sealant seaping through the tire that could be because the sealant is old and separated and the thinner liquid (the latex portion) is leaking through the tire. Sealant usually has a 3 to 6 month life in a tire. It may also indicate that you did not use enough sealant initially to seal up sidewall imperfections and coat the inside of the tire. Also, make sure you are using a sealant rated for winter temps such as the Orange seal winter formula. So, replace sealant, and use more next time to coat the sidewalls and seal small imperfections Hope that helps

Lets attack the advantages and disadvantages first, then I can highlight some costs you would want to consider if making the switch. Electronic has a few things going for it; 1. Super easy to install on your own (no cable routing) and setup of the shifts is pretty easy to do as well. It can be different than previous generation cable if that is what you are use to, but generally pretty easy. 2. Never needs re-adjustment (Theoretically) almost a set and forget... just don't forget to clean and lube you drivetrain 3. Easy on the hands... you do not have to fight with cable tension or longer paddle throws if you have some wrist/thumb issues But, there are some drawbacks 1.AXS derailleurs are long and big... they are a little exposed to trail snippers like rocks, roots and logs. A little smack and if it throws the system slightly out of alignment, you can experience some rather annoying shifting problems until either you, or a shop preforms some surgical level re-alignment to it. Mechanical allows for a wider tolerance of mis-alignment because you can compensate with cable tension and in some instances over shifting at the paddle. 2. Batteries.... just another thing to charge. Unless it is on an ebike and you can tie it into the systems battery. Can I ask what system you are currently using, and if you are planning to put it on an ebike or analogue bike???? That may give us something else to discuss in terms of costs and best options!