I'd keep it simple and buy a color with the black pearl already mixed into the base. Even better if you go with an OEM color for this. Then you're spraying it like any normal base/clear job, and you're not on the hook for getting the pearl concentration and distribution right yourself. I wouldn't put the pearl in the clear on this one. You want the pearl living in the basecoat, then clear over it like normal. Pearl in the clear can work for certain things, but it makes application and uniformity a lot harder. Either way, a spray-out card would be highly recommended to make sure the color is what you want before you commit to the whole project. Hope this helps 😎

It really depends on the project! Sometimes it helps to skim coat with glaze, but if the bodywork is relatively straight, I'd move onto polyester or vinylester primer and work up from there. Or, if it's a daily, finish filler around 180 grit and move onto urethane high build.

No, I’d just take the poly to P400. Clean everything really well (more info in the course), then spray a urethane sealer like Lesonal Primer Pro. That’s what I use. Move straight into base coat. If you have any dust or other imperfections to fix, dry nib-sand the base with a Rotolo P600 sanding sponge. Then apply more base, followed by clear. That’s the most straightforward process I’ve found. It minimizes opportunities for contamination and keeps the recoat windows as close together as possible, so the materials chemically lock together.

Interesting. It’s a little hard to tell from the pictures, but I think the best place to start would be with another light coat of primer over the area you’ve already primed. Once it’s dry, apply a dry guide coat and carefully sand the area with P400 or P600, depending on the next step. From there, I’d lay down a wet bed of intercoat clear, ideally from the same paint line as your basecoat. If you’re using sealer first, I’d sand the primer with P400 instead of P600, then apply the sealer followed by the intercoat clear. If you’re not using sealer, you can go directly from the P600-sanded primer to the intercoat clear, then proceed with your basecoat as normal. Just my two cents, but I think that should get you pretty close to the outcome you’re looking for. I suspect what you’re seeing may be peroxide bleed-through, which can occasionally happen with polyester fillers underneath primer. Hope this helps!

I’ve used Lesonal, Wanda, U-Tech, and Sikkens (and liked most of it), but haven’t tried Dynacoat. I’m curious! Wish I had more experience with this product