Chapter Three: A Day Early, A Museum Late, and a Kestrel That Didn't Wait
Joostenberg Vlakte, Canary Street, Durbanville, and the Art of Getting Things Wrong Productively There is a specific category of travel mistake that is not quite a disaster and not quite an adventure but occupies a useful space somewhere between the two. It produces no lasting harm, generates a mildly entertaining story, and occasionally — if the road you take instead turns out to have a Rock Kestrel on it — delivers something you wouldn't have found otherwise. Wednesday was that kind of day. The Wrong Day, The Right Attitude The plan had been straightforward. Drive out to meet Cindy at her home in Joostenberg Vlakte, a farming settlement in the Tygerberg district northeast of Cape Town where the land opens up, the sky gets considerably bigger, and the Cape's suburban density gives way to something altogether more agricultural and unhurried. The Klipheuwel road — one of those back routes that rewards the driver who isn't in a hurry with a completely different version of the Cape than the one the tourist brochures feature. We drove it with the particular pleasure of people behind the wheel of a car they are beginning to trust, in a country they are beginning, once again, to inhabit properly rather than visit. Joostenberg Vlakte arrived. We found Canary Street. We found Cindy's home, which was immediately and obviously the kind of place that a genuine wildlife and nature enthusiast lives in — the garden, even glimpsed briefly from the gate, had the specific quality of a space that has been thought about and tended with purpose rather than merely maintained. At which point Cindy appeared, warm and welcoming, and it became apparent — in the gentle, slightly excruciating way these things always become apparent — that we were a day early. The meeting was Thursday. The silence that followed lasted perhaps three seconds but contained, in that compressed space, the full emotional journey from mild confusion through dawning realisation to the specific variety of embarrassment reserved for people who consider themselves organised. We consider ourselves organised. We had arrived on the wrong day with complete efficiency and excellent punctuality, which is arguably worse than being late.