Alright, we’ve got a hole in the wall. Maybe someone swung a door too hard or missed with a stud finder — doesn’t matter. I’m going to walk you through fixing it right, from patch to paint, so it looks like it never happened. Step 1: Prep the Area First, clean up the hole. Cut around it with a utility knife so the edges are smooth and square. You want solid drywall all the way around — no loose paper or crumbling edges. Wipe away any dust. If the hole’s small — say, smaller than a golf ball — you can use a patch kit. Bigger than that? You’ll need to cut a piece of new drywall. Step 2: Backing Support (for larger holes) If your hole is bigger than about 6 inches, screw a small piece of wood (like a 1x2) inside the wall behind the hole to act as a backer. Hold it behind the opening, then drive a couple drywall screws through the existing wall into the wood. That’ll give your patch something to grab onto. Step 3: Cut and Fit the Patch Cut a new piece of drywall to match the hole you just squared off. It should fit snug — not jammed, but no big gaps either. Place it into the hole and screw it into that backer board. Make sure the screws are just below the surface of the drywall — not breaking through the paper cover. (Little secret!!! Pre-cut the new drywall bigger than the hole and trace it!!!!) Step 4: Tape the Seams Use Fiber fuse tape or paper tape over all the seams where the new patch meets the old wall. This keeps the joint compound from cracking later. --- Step 5: Apply Joint Compound (Mud) Using a 6-inch knife, spread a thin layer of joint compound over the patch and tape, feathering the edges out past the repair. Let it dry completely — usually overnight. Then, hit it with a sanding sponge or 120-grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Apply a second coat, a little wider this time, feathering further out to blend into the wall. Let it dry and sand again. You may need a third light coat for perfection. --- Step 6: Prime and Paint Once your patch feels smooth and flush, wipe away any dust.

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