💧 Leak Detection Lesson: The 3 Signs Your Irrigation System Is Losing Water Underground One of the most expensive irrigation problems isn’t a broken sprinkler head you can see — it’s the leak you can’t see. Underground leaks waste water, lower pressure, and can quietly destroy landscaping. Here are the three fastest ways professionals detect leaks in irrigation systems. 1. The Wet Spot That Never Dries If you notice a patch of turf that stays soggy or greener than the surrounding lawn, that’s a classic underground pipe leak. What’s happening: Water is escaping from a cracked lateral line or fitting and saturating the soil constantly. What to check: Soft soil when you walk over it Mushy turf Grass growing faster than the surrounding area 2. Low Pressure in One Zone If a zone suddenly looks weak — heads barely popping up or spray distance reduced — pressure is being lost somewhere in that line. Common causes: Cracked poly pipe Broken PVC fitting Split funny pipe at a sprinkler head A leak steals pressure before it reaches the rest of the heads. 3. The Meter Test (Pro Trick) This is one of the fastest ways to confirm a leak. Steps: Turn off all irrigation zones Go to the water meter Watch the leak indicator dial If it’s spinning while the system is off, water is going somewhere — and it shouldn’t be. Quick Pro Tip Most irrigation leaks happen in three places: Right beside sprinkler heads At pipe fittings or tees In areas where equipment or vehicles drive over the lawn Always check these spots first before digging up the whole yard. Why This Matters A small irrigation leak can waste thousands of gallons per month, and most homeowners never notice until the water bill spikes. The faster you detect it, the easier the repair. 💧 Question for the community: What’s the most difficult irrigation leak you’ve ever had to find? Was it under a driveway, tree roots, or somewhere unexpected? Let’s hear your stories.

💧 IRRIGATION LESSON: The 60-Second Sprinkler Valve Test Every Homeowner Should Know Most homeowners think a sprinkler valve is bad the moment a zone won’t turn on or shut off. In reality, 8 out of 10 valve problems are electrical — not mechanical. Here’s a quick test you can teach customers (or do yourself) in about 60 seconds. Step 1 — Turn the Zone On at the Controller Go to your irrigation controller and manually start the zone that isn’t working. Now walk to the valve box. Listen closely. You should hear a soft click or hum when the controller sends power to the solenoid. No sound at all? You may have a wiring problem or a bad solenoid. Step 2 — Use the “Quarter-Turn Test” Grab the solenoid on top of the valve. Turn it ¼ turn counter-clockwise. If water suddenly starts flowing to the sprinklers, the valve itself is fine. That means the real issue is usually: • bad solenoid • broken wire • controller output issue Step 3 — Turn It Back Turn the solenoid ¼ turn back clockwise to close it. If the sprinklers shut off immediately, you’ve just confirmed the valve body and diaphragm are working. What This Test Tells You Valve opens manually = Electrical problem Valve won't open manually = Mechanical problem inside valve Pro Tip from the Field Most pros carry extra solenoids on the truck because replacing one takes under 2 minutes and fixes a huge percentage of valve issues. Question for the Community What brand valve do you see fail the most in the field? RainBird Hunter Orbit Irritrol Other? Drop your answer below 👇 Let’s compare notes and see what everyone is running into out there.

💧 The Hidden Irrigation Leak That Drains Your System (And Your Wallet) One of the most common irrigation problems we see is a leak that no one can find. The controller is working. The valves are opening. The heads pop up. But something still isn’t right. Maybe you notice: • A zone losing pressure • A soggy spot that never dries • A valve box filling with water • A water bill that suddenly jumps • A pump that runs longer than normal Most of the time, the leak isn't where people think it is. Homeowners usually assume the leak is at a sprinkler head… But in the field, the real culprits are often: 1️⃣ Swing joints cracking underground These are flexible fittings that connect the head to the lateral line. They crack over time and leak slowly underground. 2️⃣ Lateral line splits Tree roots, trenching, or ground shifting can split a PVC line and cause major pressure loss. 3️⃣ Valve diaphragm leaks A damaged diaphragm can allow water to slowly pass through the valve even when the zone is off. 4️⃣ Fittings that loosen over time Adapters, elbows, and tees inside valve boxes are common leak points. 5️⃣ Freeze or impact damage Even in Georgia, shallow pipe can crack during cold snaps or from heavy equipment. The key to leak detection is thinking like water. Water always takes the path of least resistance, which means the visible wet spot might actually be 10–30 feet away from the real leak. That’s why professional irrigation diagnostics follow three steps: 1️⃣ Pressure check 2️⃣ Zone isolation 3️⃣ Visual and acoustic inspection Once you isolate the zone, the leak usually reveals itself quickly. 👇 Community Question What’s the toughest irrigation leak you’ve ever had to track down? Was it: • A cracked lateral line • A bad valve • A hidden swing joint • A broken mainline • Something unusual Share the story — your experience could help someone else solve a leak faster. Because once you learn how to track water… you learn how to fix irrigation systems the right way.

💧 Sprinkler Valve Problems — The #1 Failure Point in Irrigation Systems If an irrigation system is the body… The valve is the heart. Every zone depends on a valve opening and closing at the right time, with the right pressure, and sealing properly when it shuts off. When a valve fails, the symptoms can look like 10 different problems, which is why valve issues confuse so many homeowners and even some contractors. Here are the 5 most common sprinkler valve failures we see in the field: 1️⃣ Valve stuck open Usually caused by debris in the diaphragm or a torn diaphragm. 2️⃣ Valve won’t turn on Could be a bad solenoid, wiring issue, or a blocked bleed port. 3️⃣ Zone running constantly Often a small rock or sand stuck inside the valve seat. 4️⃣ Low pressure in one zone A partially opening valve or failing diaphragm. 5️⃣ Water leaking from the valve box Usually cracked fittings, a bad lid seal, or loose adapters. One important thing to understand: 👉 Most sprinkler valves do NOT need to be replaced. In many cases, a $10 diaphragm kit or a simple cleaning will bring the valve back to life. That’s why the first step is always diagnosis before replacement. 👇 Community Question What sprinkler valve brand do you run into the most problems with? • Rain Bird • Hunter • Orbit • Toro • Irritrol • Other And what was the issue? Stuck open? Won’t turn on? Constant leak? Drop your experience below so everyone in the community can learn from it. Because once you understand sprinkler valves… Irrigation systems get a whole lot easier to fix. 💧🔧

💧 What One Drop of Water Really Means Look closely at this logo. Inside that single water drop is the entire irrigation industry. A sprinkler head. Water pressure. Coverage patterns. Healthy turf. Healthy landscapes. But behind that drop is something most homeowners — and even some contractors — underestimate: Diagnostics. Anyone can replace a sprinkler head. Anyone can swap a valve. But diagnosing why the system failed in the first place is what separates professionals from parts changers. In the field, irrigation problems usually come down to a few core issues: • Incorrect pressure • Flow restriction • Valve failure • Controller programming • Broken laterals • Poor system design When you understand how those elements interact, irrigation systems stop being complicated. They become predictable. That’s the entire philosophy behind the FixMyIrrigation community — helping people understand irrigation systems so they can diagnose problems faster, fix them correctly, and stop wasting money replacing the wrong parts. So I’m curious… 👇 Question for the community What is the most confusing irrigation problem you have ever run into? Examples: • Zones with low pressure • Heads not popping up • Valves stuck open • Controller running but nothing turning on • Water hammer • Random dry spots Drop it in the comments and let’s break it down together. Because once you understand irrigation… Water starts making sense. 💧