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Pinned
Nov '25 •
Welcome to Alpine Apothecary!
I’m so glad you’re here. This community is for anyone who loves making natural products - whether you’re a complete beginner, a hobbyist, or an experienced small-batch maker. This is your space to learn, experiment, and grow your confidence with clear guidance and real formulas. Inside you’ll find courses, workshops, behind-the-scenes education, and a supportive group of makers who love sharing the craft. Skincare, bath bombs, candles, herbal remedies, teas, botanical colour - it all lives here. Take your time exploring. Ask questions. Share your wins (and your fails). You’re not expected to know everything - that’s what this space is for. If you love creating natural products and want honest, practical education without overwhelm, you’re in the right place. Welcome to Alpine Apothecary.Let’s make beautiful things together.
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Pinned
Nov '25 •
START HERE: How to Use This Community
Read this first — it will make everything easier. Welcome to Alpine Apothecary!This post will guide you through how this community works so you always know exactly where to find what you need. 1. Explore the Learning Categories Each category is designed to keep everything organised and easy to navigate: Skincare Formulation Lessons, tips, and posts on creams, serums, balms, masks, cleansers and natural formulation. Bath & Body Products Bath bombs, bath melts, scrubs, salts, shower steamers, and all things bath and body. Candles & Home Fragrance Coconut wax, wicks, EOs, diffusers, room sprays, incense, and scent blending. Herbal Remedies & Teas Herbal blends, tinctures, infusions, decoctions, and plant-based wellness. Ingredient Knowledge Everything you need to know about oils, butters, waxes, herbs, clays, additives and natural colourants. Business & Selling Pricing, labels, packaging, compliance, photography, marketing and markets. Announcements & Updates Important updates, new lessons and official posts.(This is where you’ll find the Welcome Post + Start Here pinned.) 2. Where YOU can post Members can post in: Troubleshooting & Help Your photos, questions, fails, wins, and anything you need support, with no question is too small — that’s what this space is for. This keeps the learning areas clean while still giving you a place to ask and share. 3. How to Get the Most Out of This Community - Ask questions early — don’t struggle alone - Share your experiments (good or messy) - Use the search bar before posting - Join in the discussions - Celebrate your wins - Learn from others - Save the posts that help you - Check the Announcements category regularly You’ll learn faster when you participate. 4. What’s Coming Next More workshops More recipes More lessons More herbal education More behind-the-scenes More maker guidance And eventually… full courses inside the Classroom. You’re here early — and that means you’re part of the foundation of this community.
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6h •
Magnesium oil in a salve ⛔
Magnesium “oil” isn’t actually an oil — it’s magnesium chloride dissolved in water. So if you’re trying to add it to a salve (which is oil + wax only), it will separate. Water and oil won’t stay mixed without an emulsifier. You have three options: 1️⃣ Keep it a true salve (no magnesium oil) Infuse your comfrey + arnica into oil, strain, then make a normal balm with wax. This will stay stable because it’s fully oil-based. 2️⃣ Make it a cream instead of a salve If you want magnesium included, you need: An emulsifier (e.g. Emulsifying Wax, BTMS, etc.) A preservative (because magnesium oil = water phase) Then it becomes a lotion/cream, not a salve. 3️⃣ Use magnesium flakes directly? No — they won’t dissolve in oil. They must be dissolved in water first, which again means you’re making an emulsion product. That separation you’re seeing isn’t failure — it’s chemistry. Salves = oil only Magnesium oil = water Water + oil = needs emulsifier
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2d •
Seawater Soap vs Soleseife (Brine Soap): What Actually Works
This question comes up a lot, so let’s clear it up properly. Using actual seawater Fresh seawater contains microbes, organic matter, and unpredictable minerals. While high pH soap isn’t a friendly environment for microbes long-term, cold process soap does not sterilise seawater in a controlled way. The contaminants and mineral load remain, which can lead to: accelerated trace reduced or unstable lather sweating or texture issues higher risk of DOS over time Because of this, most experienced soapmakers do not recommend using raw seawater in cosmetic soap. Cosmetic sea salt is different Cosmetic-grade sea salt is: washed and purified dried and consistent free from biological contaminants This makes it suitable for skin products and repeatable soap batches. What people usually mean: Soleseife The correct method is Soleseife (German for brine soap). Soleseife uses: distilled water cosmetic sea salt (fully dissolved first) then lye added to create a controlled brine solution This is not the same as high-salt “salt bars” where large amounts of salt are added to oils. Why Soleseife works predictable and repeatable very hard bars smooth, creamy lather (less bubbly, more dense) no microbial or contamination risk Bottom line If you want a “sea soap”: ❌ raw seawater = unpredictable and unnecessary risk ✅ distilled water + cosmetic sea salt = professional, controlled method That method already has a name — Soleseife — and it exists for a reason. If there’s interest, I can share a clean Soleseife cold process soap recipe and usage tips in a recipe... Comment if interested.
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3d •
Essential Oil Note Chart — For Soapmaking
This chart reflects how essential oils behave in soap, especially cold process, after saponification and cure. Top Notes (Fade Fast in Soap) Light molecules. Smell bright at pour, often faint after cure unless anchored. Sweet Orange Lemon (steam distilled) Lime (steam distilled) Bergamot FCF Grapefruit (FCF) Eucalyptus (globulus, radiata) Peppermint Spearmint Soap reality: These usually fade the most. Best used with a middle or base note to help them last. Middle Notes (Soap Workhorses) Moderate volatility. These form the core scent of most soaps. Lavender Rosemary Geranium Clary Sage Cypress Tea Tree Juniper Berry Cardamom Soap reality: Middle notes survive cure better and give structure to a blend. Many “single EO” soaps rely on these. Base Notes (Anchors in Soap) Heavy molecules. Evaporate slowly and help hold other scents. Patchouli Vetiver Cedarwood (Atlas, Virginian) Sandalwood (true or sustainable alternatives) Benzoin (resinoid) Amyris Frankincense (resin-rich types hold better) Soap reality: Even a small amount can dramatically improve scent longevity in CP soap. Important Soapmaking Clarifications Note category does NOT change with percentage Using more lavender doesn’t make it a base note — it stays a middle note. Ratios affect dominance, not chemistry A 60/40 blend only changes what your nose notices first. Soap is harsh on scent Heat, alkalinity, and long cure times mean some oils behave very differently than in candles or perfumes. Balanced blends last longer Top + middle + base usually outlast single-note or top-heavy blends. Example (Soap Context) Lavender + Rosemary Lavender = middle note Rosemary = middle note No matter the ratio, this is a middle–middle blend. It will smell lovely but may benefit from a small base note if longevity is important. Safety reminder (non-negotiable): Always calculate usage rates for soap and IFRA categories. Understanding scent structure helps blending — it never replaces EO safety calculations.
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